Then, too, just as we turned back, our arms full of driftwood, another thing happened to recall us to the river bank.  This time it really was a man, and what was more, a man in a boat.  Now a small boat on the Danube was an unusual sight at any time, but here in this deserted region, and at flood time, it was so unexpected as to constitute a real event.  We stood and stared.

Whether it was due to the slanting sunlight, or the refraction from the wonderfully illumined water, I cannot say, but, whatever the cause, I found it difficult to focus my sight properly upon the flying apparition.  It seemed, however, to be a man standing upright in a sort of flat-bottomed boat, steering with a long oar, and being carried down the opposite shore at a tremendous pace.  He apparently was looking across in our direction, but the distance was too great and the light too uncertain for us to make out very plainly what he was about.  It seemed to me that he was gesticulating and making signs at us.  His voice came across the water to us shouting something furiously but the wind drowned it so that no single word was audible.  There was something curious about the whole appearance—­man, boat, signs, voice—­that made an impression on me out of all proportion to its cause.

“He’s crossing himself!” I cried.  “Look, he’s making the sign of the cross!”

“I believe you’re right,” the Swede said, shading his eyes with his hand and watching the man out of sight.  He seemed to be gone in a moment, melting away down there into the sea of willows where the sun caught them in the bend of the river and turned them into a great crimson wall of beauty.  Mist, too, had begun to rise, so that the air was hazy.

“But what in the world is he doing at nightfall on this flooded river?” I said, half to myself.  “Where is he going at such a time, and what did he mean by his signs and shouting?  D’you think he wished to warn us about something?”

“He saw our smoke, and thought we were spirits probably,” laughed my companion.  “These Hungarians believe in all sorts of rubbish:  you remember the shopwoman at Pressburg warning us that no one ever landed here because it belonged to some sort of beings outside man’s world!  I suppose they believe in fairies and elementals, possibly demons too.  That peasant in the boat saw people on the islands for the first time in his life,” he added, after a slight pause, “and it scared him, that’s all.”  The Swede’s tone of voice was not convincing, and his manner lacked something that was usually there.  I noted the change instantly while he talked, though without being able to label it precisely.

“If they had enough imagination,” I laughed loudly—­I remember trying to make as much noise as I could—­“they might well people a place like this with the old gods of antiquity.  The Romans must have haunted all this region more or less with their shrines and sacred groves and elemental deities.”