Within the proper boundary of Russia our way was no better.  There we saw queer projections of boards around trees to keep bears from climbing after the hunters.

The Lithuanian peasants had few wants.  Their carts were put together without nails.  Their bridles and traces were made of bark.  They had no tools but hatchets.  A sheepskin coat and round felt cap kept a man warm in cold weather.  His shoes were made of bark, and his home of logs with penthouse roof.

In houses where travelers slept the candles were laths of deal, about five feet long, stuck into crevices of the wall or hung over tables.  Our hosts carried them about, dropping unheeded sparks upon the straw beds.

In Grodno, a town of falling houses and ruined palaces, we rested again before turning directly north.

There my heart began to sink.  We had spent four weeks on a comfortless road, working always toward the goal.  It was nearly won.  A speech of my friend the marquis struck itself out sharply in the northern light.

“You are not the only Pretender, my dear boy.  Don’t go to Mittau expecting to be hailed as a novelty.  At least two peasants have started up claiming to be the prince who did not die in the Temple, and have been cast down again, complaining of the treatment of their dear sister!  The Count d’Artois says he would rather saw wood for a living than be king after the English fashion.  I would rather be the worthless old fellow I am than be king after the Mittau fashion; especially when his Majesty, Louis XVIII, sees you coming!”

IX

Purposely we entered Mittau about sunset, which was nearer ten o’clock than nine in that northern land; coming through wheat lands to where a network of streams forms the river Aa.  In this broad lap of the province of Courland sat Mittau.  Yelgava it was called by the people among whom we last posted, and they pronounced the word as if naming something as great as Paris.

It was already July, St. John’s day being two weeks gone; yet the echoes of its markets and feastings lingered.  The word “Johanni” smote even an ear deaf to the language.  It was like a dissolving fair.

“You are too late for Johanni,” said the German who kept the house for travelers, speaking the kind of French we heard in Poland.  “Perhap it is just as well for you.  This Johanni has nearly ruined me!”

Yet he showed a disposition to hire my singular servant from me at a good wage, walking around and around Skenedonk, who bore the scrutiny like a pine tree.

The Oneida enjoyed his travels.  It was easy for him to conform to the thoughts and habits of Europe.  We had not talked about the venture into Russia.  He simply followed me where I went without asking questions, proving himself faithful friend and liberal minded gentleman.

We supped privately, and I dressed with care.  Horses were put in for our last short post of a few streets.  We had suffered such wretched quarters on the way that the German guest-house spread itself commodiously.  Yet its walls were the flimsiest slabs.  I heard some animal scratching and whining in the next chamber.  On the post-road, however, we had not always a wall betwixt ourselves and the dogs.