hold on the traghetto. One is to this
effect: il traghetto e un buon padrone.
The other satirises the meanness of the poverty-stricken
Venetian nobility: pompa di servitu, misera
insegna. When they combine the traghetto
with private service, the municipality insists on their
retaining the number painted on their gondola; and
against this their employers frequently object.
It is therefore a great point for a gondolier to make
such an arrangement with his master as will leave him
free to show his number. The reason for this
regulation is obvious. Gondoliers are known more
by their numbers and their traghetti than their
names. They tell me that though there are upwards
of a thousand registered in Venice, each man of the
trade knows the whole confraternity by face and number.
Taking all things into consideration, I think four
francs a day the whole year round are very good earnings
for a gondolier. On this he will marry and rear
a family, and put a little money by. A young
unmarried man, working at two and a half or three
francs a day, is proportionately well-to-do.
If he is economical, he ought upon these wages to save
enough in two or three years to buy himself a gondola.
A boy from fifteen to nineteen is called a mezz’
uomo, and gets about one franc a day. A new
gondola with all its fittings is worth about a thousand
francs. It does not last in good condition more
than six or seven years. At the end of that time
the hull will fetch eighty francs. A new hull
can be had for three hundred francs. The old
fittings—brass sea-horses or cavalli,
steel prow or ferro, covered cabin or felze,
cushions and leather-covered back-board or stramazetto,
maybe transferred to it. When a man wants to
start a gondola, he will begin by buying one already
half past service—a gondola da traghetto
or di mezza eta. This should cost him
something over two hundred francs. Little by
little, he accumulates the needful fittings; and when
his first purchase is worn out, he hopes to set up
with a well-appointed equipage. He thus gradually
works his way from the rough trade which involves
hard work and poor earnings to that more profitable
industry which cannot be carried on without a smart
boat. The gondola is a source of continual expense
for repairs. Its oars have to be replaced.
It has to be washed with sponges, blacked, and varnished.
Its bottom needs frequent cleaning. Weeds adhere
to it in the warm brackish water, growing rapidly
through the summer months, and demanding to be scrubbed
off once in every four weeks. The gondolier has
no place where he can do this for himself. He
therefore takes his boat to a wharf, or squero,
as the place is called. At these squeri
gondolas are built as well as cleaned. The fee
for a thorough setting to rights of the boat is five
francs. It must be done upon a fine day.
Thus in addition to the cost, the owner loses a good
day’s work.