wine, it would be absurd to suppose that one obtained it precisely from the eponymous estate.  But as each of these vineyards yields a marked quality of wine, which is taken as standard-giving, the produce of the whole district may be broadly classified as approaching more or less nearly to one of these accepted types.  The Inferno, Grumello, and Perla di Sassella of commerce are therefore three sorts of good Valtelline, ticketed with famous names to indicate certain differences of quality.  Montagner, as the name implies, is a somewhat lighter wine, grown higher up in the hill-vineyards.  And of this class there are many species, some approximating to Sassella in delicacy of flavour, others approaching the tart lightness of the Villa vintage.  This last takes its title from a village in the neighbourhood of Tirano, where a table-wine is chiefly grown.

Forzato is the strongest, dearest, longest-lived of this whole family of wines.  It is manufactured chiefly at Tirano; and, as will be understood from its name, does not profess to belong to any one of the famous localities.  Forzato or Sforzato, forced or enforced, is in fact a wine which has undergone a more artificial process.  In German the people call it Strohwein, which also points to the method of its preparation.  The finest grapes are selected and dried in the sun (hence the Stroh) for a period of eight or nine weeks.  When they have almost become raisins, they are pressed.  The must is heavily charged with sugar, and ferments powerfully.  Wine thus made requires several years to ripen.  Sweet at first, it takes at last a very fine quality and flavour, and is rough, almost acid, on the tongue.  Its colour too turns from a deep rich crimson to the tone of tawny port, which indeed it much resembles.

Old Forzato, which has been long in cask, and then perhaps three years in bottle, will fetch at least six francs, or may rise to even ten francs a flask.  The best Sassella rarely reaches more than five francs.  Good Montagner and Grumello can be had perhaps for four francs; and Inferno of a special quality for six francs.  Thus the average price of old Valtelline wine may be taken as five francs a bottle.  These, I should observe, are hotel prices.

Valtelline wines bought in the wood vary, of course, according to their age and year of vintage.  I have found that from 2.50 fr. to 3.50 fr. per litre is a fair price for sorts fit to bottle.  The new wine of 1881 sold in the following winter at prices varying from 1.05 fr. to 1.80 fr. per litre.

It is customary for the Graubuenden wine-merchants to buy up the whole produce of a vineyard from the peasants at the end of the vintage.  They go in person or depute their agents to inspect the wine, make their bargains, and seal the cellars where the wine is stored.  Then, when the snow has fallen, their own horses with sleighs and trusted servants go across the passes to bring it home.  Generally they have some local man of confidence at Tirano,