The Burgundian dukes were among the most powerful rulers of their time—­the equals of kings in all but name—­and they far surpassed all contemporary sovereigns in their lavish display and the splendour of their court.  The festival at Bruges in 1430 in celebration of the marriage of Philip the Good and Isabel of Portugal, at which the Order of the Golden Fleece was instituted, excited universal wonder; while his successor, Charles the Bold, contrived to surpass even his father in the splendour of his espousals with Margaret of York in 1468, and at his conference with the Emperor Frederick III at Trier in 1473.  On this last occasion he wore a mantle encrusted all over with diamonds.

The foundation of the Order of the Golden Fleece in 1430 was an event of great importance, as marking a step forward on the part of Philip in its assumption of quasi-regal attributes.  The title was very appropriate, for it pointed to the wool and cloth trade as being the source of the wealth of Flanders.  The Order comprised thirty-one knights, chosen from the flower of the Burgundian nobles and the chief councillors of the sovereign.  The statutes of the Order set forth in detail the privileges of the members, and their duties and obligations to their prince.  They had a prescriptive claim to be consulted on all matters of importance, to be selected for the chief government posts, and to serve on military councils.  The knights were exempt from the jurisdiction of all courts, save that of their own chapter.

Philip died in 1467 and was succeeded by his son, Charles, who had already exercised for some years authority in the Netherlands as his father’s deputy.  Charles, as his surname le Temeraire witnesses, was a man of impulsive and autocratic temperament, but at the same time a hard worker, a great organiser, and a brilliant soldier.  Consumed with ambition to realise that restoration of a great middle Lotharingian kingdom stretching from the North Sea to the Mediterranean, for which his father had been working during his long and successful reign, he threw himself with almost passionate energy into the accomplishment of his task.  With this object he was the first sovereign to depart from feudal usages and to maintain a standing army.  He appeared at one time to be on the point of accomplishing his aim.  Lorraine, which divided his southern from his northern possessions, was for a short time in his possession.  Intervening in Gelderland between the Duke Arnold of Egmont and his son Adolf, he took the latter prisoner and obtained the duchy in pledge from the former.  Uprisings in the Flemish towns against heavy taxation and arbitrary rule were put down with a strong hand.  In September, 1474, the duke, accompanied by a splendid suite, met the emperor Frederick III at Trier to receive the coveted crown from the imperial hands.  It was arranged that Charles’ only daughter and heiress should be betrothed to Maximilian of Austria, the emperor’s