on both sides, but, alas! it runs through these infernal marshes, which there is no shunning, and which the example of many of my friends proves to be exceeding dangerous.  The road, though it has the appearance of winding among hills, is in fact, on the left side, limited by the sea-coast running northward.  It comes into its more proper line at a celebrated sea-marsh called Cameria,[524] concerning which the oracle said “Ne moveas Camarinam,” and the transgression of which precept brought on a pestilence.  The road here is a wild pass bounded by a rocky precipice; on one hand covered with wild shrubs, flowers, and plants, and on the other by the sea.  After this we came to a military position, where Murat used to quarter a body of troops and cannonade the English gunboats, which were not slow in returning the compliment.  The English then garrisoned Italy and Sicily under Sir [John Stuart].  We supped at this place, half fitted up as a barrack, half as an inn. (The place is now called Terracina.) Near this a round tower is shown, termed the tomb of Cicero, which may be doubted.  I ought, before quitting Terracina, to have mentioned the view of the town and castle of Gaeta from the Pass.  It is a castle of great strength.  I should have mentioned Aversa, remarkable for a house for insane persons, on the humane plan of not agitating their passions.  After a long pilgrimage on this beastly road we fell asleep in spite of warnings to the contrary, and before we beat the reveille were within twenty miles of the city of Rome.  I think I felt the effects of the bad air and damp in a very bad headache.

After a steep climb up a slippery ill-paved road Velletri received us, and accommodated us in an ancient villa or chateau, the original habitation of an old noble.  I would have liked much to have taken a look at it; but I am tired by my ride.  I fear my time for such researches is now gone.  Monte Albano, a pleasant place, should also be mentioned, especially a forest of grand oaks, which leads you pretty directly into the vicinity of Rome.  My son Charles had requested the favour of our friend Sir William Gell to bespeak a lodging, which, considering his bad health, was scarcely fair.  My daughter had imposed the same favour, but they had omitted to give precise direction how to correspond with their friends concerning the execution of their commission.  So there we were, as we had reason to think, possessed of two apartments and not knowing the [way] to any of them.  We entered Rome by a gate[525] renovated by one of the old Pontiffs, but which, I forget, and so paraded the streets by moonlight to discover, if possible, some appearance of the learned Sir William Gell or the pretty Mrs. Ashley.  At length we found our old servant who guided us to the lodgings taken by Sir William Gell, where all was comfortable, a good fire included, which our fatigue and the chilliness of the night required.  We dispersed as soon as we had taken some food, wine, and water.