December 13, [Naples].—­We left Malta on this day, and after a most picturesque voyage between the coast of Sicily and Malta arrived here on the 17th, where we were detained for quarantine, whence we were not dismissed till the day before Christmas.  I saw Charles, to my great joy, and agreed to dine with his master, Right Hon. Mr. Hill,[500] resolving it should be my first and last engagement at Naples.  Next morning much struck with the beauty of the Bay of Naples.  It is insisted that my arrival has been a signal for the greatest eruption from Vesuvius which that mountain has favoured us with for many a day.  I can only say, as the Frenchman said of the comet supposed to foretell his own death, “Ah, messieurs, la comete me fait trop d’honneur.”  Of letters I can hear nothing.  There are many English here, of most of whom I have some knowledge.

December 25, [Bay of Naples].—­We are once more fairly put into quarantine.  Captain Pigot does not, I think, quite understand the freedom his flag is treated with, and could he find law for so doing would try his long thirty-six pounders on the town of Naples and its castles; not to mention a sloop of ten guns which has ostentatiously entered the Bay to assist them.  Lord knows we would make ducks and drakes of the whole party with the Barham’s terrible battery!

There is a new year like to begin and no news from Britain.  By and by I will be in the condition of those who are sick and in prison, and entitled to visits and consolation on principles of Christianity.

December 26, [Strada Nuova].—­Went ashore; admitted to pratique, and were received here.[501] Walter has some money left, which we must use or try a begging-box, for I see no other resource, since they seem to have abandoned me so.  Go ashore each day to sight-seeing.  Have the pleasure to meet Mr.[502] and Mrs. Laing-Meason of Lindertis, and have their advice and assistance and company in our wanderings almost every day.  Mr. Meason has made some valuable remarks on the lava where the villas of the middle ages are founded:  the lava shows at least upon the ancient maritime villas of the Romans; so the boot of the moderns galls the kibe of the age preceding them; the reason seems to be the very great durability with which the Romans finished their domestic architecture of maritime arches, by which they admitted the sea into their lower houses.[503]

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We were run away with, into the grotto very nearly, but luckily stopped before we entered, and so saved our lives.  We have seen the Strada Nuova—­a new access of extreme beauty which the Italians owe to Murat.

The Bay of Naples is one of the finest things I ever saw.  Vesuvius controls it on the opposite side of the town.

I never go out in the evening, but take airings in the day-time almost daily.  The day after Christmas I went to see some old parts of the city, amongst the rest a tower called Torre del Carmine, which figured during the Duke of Guise’s adventure, and the gallery of as old a church, where Masaniello was shot at the conclusion of his career.[504] I marked down the epitaph of a former Empress,[505] which is striking and affecting.  It would furnish matter for my Tour if I wanted it.