October 3.—­Rose about eight or later.  My morals begin to be corrupted by travelling and fine company.  Went to Durham with Lord Ravensworth betwixt one and two.  Found the gentlemen of Durham county and town assembled to receive the Duke of Wellington.  I saw several old friends, and with difficulty suited names to faces, and faces to names.  There was Headlam, Dr. Gilly and his wife, and a world of acquaintance besides, Sir Thomas Lawrence too, with Lord Londonderry.  I asked him to come on with me, but he could not.  He is, from habit of coaxing his subjects I suppose, a little too fair-spoken, otherwise very pleasant.  The Duke arrived very late.  There were bells and cannon and drums, trumpets and banners, besides a fine troop of yeomanry.  The address was well expressed, and as well answered by the Duke.  The enthusiasm of the ladies and the gentry was great—­the common people were lukewarm[46].  The Duke has lost popularity in accepting political power.  He will be more useful to his country it may be than ever, but will scarce be so gracious in the people’s eyes; and he will not care a curse for what outward show he has lost.  But I must not talk of curses, for we are going to take our dinner with the Bishop of Durham[47], a man of amiable and courteous manners, who becomes his station well, but has traces of bad health on his countenance.

We dined, about one hundred and forty or fifty men, a distinguished company for rank and property.  Marshal Beresford, and Sir John[48], amongst others, Marquis of Lothian, Lord Duncombe, Marquis Londonderry, and I know not who besides: 

    “Lords and Dukes and noble Princes,
    All the pride and flower of Spain.”

We dined in the rude old baronial hall, impressive from its antiquity, and fortunately free from the plaster of former improvement, as I trust it will, from the gingerbread taste of modern Gothicisers.  The bright moon streaming in through the old Gothic windows, made a light which contrasted strangely with the artificial lights within; spears, banners, and armour were intermixed with the pictures of old, and the whole had a singular mixture of baronial pomp with the graver and more chastened dignity of prelacy.  The conduct of our reverend entertainer suited the character remarkably well.  Amid the welcome of a Count Palatine he did not for an instant forget the gravity of the Church dignitary.  All his toasts were gracefully given, and his little speeches well made, and the more affecting that the failing voice sometimes reminded us that our aged host laboured under the infirmities of advanced life.  To me personally the Bishop was very civil, and paid me his public compliments by proposing my health in the most gratifying manner.[49]

The Bishop’s lady received a sort of drawing-room after we rose from table, at which a great many ladies attended.  I ought not to forget that the singers of the choir attended at dinner, and sung the Anthem Non nobis Domine, as they said who understood them, very well—­and, as I think, who did not understand the music, with an unusual degree of spirit and interest.  It is odd how this can be distinguished from the notes of fellows who use their throats with as little feeling of the notes they utter as if they were composed of the same metal as their bugle-horns.