After ten I went with Anne to the Tuileries, where we saw the royal family pass through the Glass Gallery as they went to Chapel.  We were very much looked at in our turn, and the King, on passing out, did me the honour to say a few civil words, which produced a great sensation.  Mad. la Dauphine and Mad. de Berri curtsied, smiled, and looked extremely gracious; and smiles, bows, and curtsies rained on us like odours, from all the courtiers and court ladies of the train.  We were conducted by an officer of the Royal Gardes du Corps to a convenient place in chapel, where we had the pleasure of hearing the grand mass performed with excellent music.

I had a perfect view of the King and royal family.  The King is the same in age as I knew him in youth at Holyrood House—­debonair and courteous in the highest degree.  Mad.  Dauphine resembles very much the prints of Marie Antoinette, in the profile especially.  She is not, however, beautiful, her features being too strong, but they announce a great deal of character, and the princess whom Bonaparte used to call the man of the family.  She seemed very attentive to her devotions.  The Duchess of Berri seemed less immersed in the ceremony, and yawned once or twice.  She is a lively-looking blonde—­looks as if she were good-humoured and happy, by no means pretty, and has a cast with her eyes; splendidly adorned with diamonds, however.  After this gave Mad.  Mirbel a sitting, where I encountered le general, her uncle,[393] who was chef de l’etat major to Bonaparte.  He was very communicative, and seemed an interesting person, by no means over much prepossessed in favour of his late master, whom he judged impartially, though with affection.

We came home and dined in quiet, having refused all temptations to go out in the evening; this on Anne’s account as well as my own.  It is not quite gospel, though Solomon says it—­the eye can be tired with seeing, whatever he may allege in the contrary.  And then there are so many compliments.  I wish for a little of the old Scotch causticity.  I am something like the bee that sips treacle.

November 5.—­I believe I must give up my Journal till I leave Paris.  The French are literally outrageous in their civilities—­bounce in at all hours, and drive one half mad with compliments.  I am ungracious not to be so entirely thankful as I ought to this kind and merry people.  We breakfasted with Mad.  Mirbel, where were the Dukes of Fitz-James, and, I think, Duras,[394] goodly company—­but all’s one for that.  I made rather an impatient sitter, wishing to talk much more than was agreeable to Madame.  Afterwards we went to the Champs Elysees, where a balloon was let off, and all sorts of frolics performed for the benefit of the bons gens de Paris—­besides stuffing them with victuals.  I wonder how such a civic festival would go off in London or Edinburgh, or especially in Dublin.  To be sure, they would not introduce their shillelahs!  But in the classic taste of the French, there were no such gladiatorial doings.  To be sure, they have a natural good-humour and gaiety which inclines them to be pleased with themselves, and everything about them.