All this time the weather continued perfect.  Not a cloud was to be seen, the sun was hot and bright, and the sky was blue enough to rival that of classic Italy.  If we could but be sure that this delightful state of things would continue, how pleasant it would be, to stop and explore some of these places.  We have, however, been so frequently warned of the possibility of detention for days and even weeks at anchor, owing to bad weather, that we are hurrying on as fast as we can, expecting that every day will bring the much-dreaded deluge, gale, or fog.  In thick weather it is simply impossible to proceed; and if it comes on suddenly, as it generally does, and finds you far from an anchorage, there is nothing to be done but to heave-to and wait till it clears, sending a party ashore if possible to light a fire, to serve as a landmark, and so enable you to maintain your position.  How thankful I am that we have been hitherto able to make the passage under such favourable circumstances!  It has been a vision of beauty and variety, the recollection of which can never be effaced.

Europe Inlet, on our right, going up Wide Channel, was full of ice.  Husband’s Inlet looked as if it was frozen over at the farther end, and Penguin Inlet seemed quite choked up with huge hummocks and blocks of ice.  Tom therefore decided not to attempt the passage of Icy Reach, for fear of being stopped, but to go round Saumarez Island to Port Grappler by way of Chasm Reach, rather a longer route.  It was a happy decision; for nothing could exceed the weird impressive splendour of this portion of the Straits.  We were passing through a deep gloomy mountain gorge, with high perpendicular cliffs on either side.  Below, all was wrapped in the deepest shade.  Far above, the sun gilded the snowy peaks and many-tinted foliage with his departing light, that slowly turned to rose-colour ere the shades of evening crept over all, and the stars began to peep out, one by one.  We could trace from the summit to the base of a lofty mountain the course of a stupendous avalanche, which had recently rushed down into the sea, crushing and destroying everything in its way, and leaving a broad track of desolation behind it.  It must for a time have completely filled up the narrow channel; and woe to any unfortunate vessel that might happen to be there at such a moment!

Port Grappler is rather a difficult place to make in the dark; but Tom managed it with much dexterity, and by eight o’clock we were safely anchored for the night.  We all wanted Tom to stay here to-morrow to get some rest, which he much needs, but he has determined to start at five o’clock in the morning as usual, for fear of being caught by bad weather.  Even I, who have of course had no anxiety as to the navigation, felt so fatigued from having been on the bridge the whole day since very early this morning, that I went straight to bed before dinner, in order to be ready for to-morrow.

[Illustration:  Indian Reach]