There was time afterwards to go round and see something of the city, which, like many other South American towns, is built in square blocks, all the streets running exactly at right angles one to another.  There is a fine plaza, or grand square, in which are situated the cathedral, theatre, &c., the centre being occupied by a garden, containing statues and fountains.  The various banks, with their marble facings, Corinthian columns, and splendid halls, are magnificent buildings, and look more like palaces than places of business.  Some of the private houses, too, seem very handsome.  Outside they are all faced with marble, to a certain height from the ground, the interior, consisting of courtyard within courtyard, being rather like that of a Pompeian house.

We next went to the agricultural show, which, though not an imposing affair to our eyes, appeared really very creditable to those who had organised it.  The horses and cattle looked small, but there were some good specimens of sheep—­specially the rombonellis and negrettis, whose long fine wool was, however, only to be discovered by first turning aside a thick plaster of mud, beneath which it was concealed.  We saw also some curious animals, natives of the country, such as vicunas, llamas, bizcachas, and various kinds of deer, a very mixed lot of poultry and dogs, and two magnificent Persian cats.  Another department of the show was allotted to the commercial products of the country, animal, vegetable, and mineral; the whole forming a very interesting collection.

In re-embarking, the disagreeable process of this morning had to be repeated—­rickety pier, rotten steps, and small boat included—­before we reached the whale-boat, after which we had an eight miles’ sail out to the yacht.  It was a cold, dull night, and getting on board proved rather difficult work, owing to the rough sea.

Thursday, September 14th.—­The pilot came on board at seven o’clock to take us in nearer the shore, but, after all, we found ourselves obliged to anchor again five miles off.  No ship drawing more than ten feet can get inside the sand-banks, which makes it a wretched place to lie in, especially as the weather at this time of year is very uncertain.  You may go ashore from your ship on a fine clear morning, and before you return a gale may have sprung up, accompanied by a frightful sea.  Open boats are therefore quite unsafe, a state of things which has given rise to the existence of a class of fine boats, specially built for the service, which attend all the ships lying in the roads.  They are half-decked, will sail in any weather, and can be easily managed by two men.