After dinner we went for a walk.  One of the things we saw during our stroll was the fine statue of Luiz de Camoens, specially interesting to us, as we had so recently seen the place where he passed many of the weary years of his exile.  Rolling Motion Square was as giddy as ever.  It was a curious fancy to pave it in such a way as to make it look like the waves of the sea, perpetually moving; and it must be a severe trial to the peripatetic powers of those who have not quite recovered their sea legs.

Saturday, May 19th.—­We were off early; it was a lovely day, and we had a pleasant drive to Cintra.  On our arrival we mounted donkeys and went to Pena, the beautiful palace of the ex-King Ferdinand, situated at the top of the mountains.  It is an extraordinary-looking place, the different parts being built in every imaginable style of architecture, with exquisite carving and old tiles that would delight the heart of a connoisseur.  One of the most prominent objects near the Palace of Pena is the statue of Vasco da Gama, nobly placed on a pedestal of natural rocks, piled on the summit of a mountain peak, and worthy of the adventurous traveller it is erected to commemorate.  The gardens are full of camellias, roses, bougainvillea, &c.  We lunched at the excellent hotel, and came to the conclusion that Cintra is the place, not only ‘to spend a happy day,’ but many happy months.  It is always pleasant to revisit places of which you have agreeable reminiscences, and to find your expectations surpassed instead of disappointed.

[Illustration:  Vasco da Gama]

We had a hot drive back to Lisbon, and then went by tram to Belem, where we spent some time in the church and in wandering through its exquisite cloisters.  The first stone was laid in 1500, and the name changed from Bairro de Restello to Belem or Bethlehem by Prince Henry of Portugal, the great promoter of maritime discovery in that century.  It was built specially to commemorate the successful voyage of Vasco da Gama, who returned from the discovery of India in 1499.

[Illustration:  Belem Cloister Gardens]

Tom met us with the yacht, and, we went on board with the intention of proceeding straight to sea.  But after passing through the Canal del Norte a heavy gale obliged us to anchor in Cascaes Bay for the night, not far from a small schooner yacht with three ladies on board.  It was rather rough, and we were very tired, or I think we should have ventured to pay them a visit, even at that late hour.  It is absurd to stand upon ceremony when travelling; but I scarcely know what the strict etiquette would be on such an occasion—­whether they, as first anchored in the bay, should call on us, or we on them, as probably the greater travellers and out longer at sea.

Sunday, May 20th.—­Weighed at 5 a.m.  There was a dense fog off Cape del Roca, and the steam-whistle, foghorns, and bell were constantly kept going, with lugubrious effect.  We had service at eleven and 4.30.  Passed the Burlings at 1.30.  Heavy swell all day.