taken special care of by a waiter who remembered us.  After breakfast we went to pay some visits.  We thought we ought to go and look at the galleries and Signal Station, as one or two of our party had never been here before; so we started, some on foot and some on donkeys.  All the way up the steep streets to the Moorish castle, girls met us, selling lovely scarlet carnations and yellow roses.  The galleries have not changed in the least since our last visit, but our soldier-guide told us they were daily expecting some big guns to come out, and he gave us a minute explanation how they were to be mounted.  It was a pleasant ride, neither too hot nor too cold.  Every crevice and interstice between the rocks was full of wild flowers, looking bright and pretty, though somewhat insignificant after the gorgeous tropical blossoms our eyes have been lately accustomed to.  The fog had cleared off, and the view was beautiful; ships lay in the bay below us from all parts, including a Portuguese gunboat.  We saw also one of the two old eagles sitting near her nest in the accustomed place; this year she has only one young one.  We did not see the monkeys, on account of the Levanter, but their number has increased to twenty-four, so that there is no immediate fear of their becoming extinct.

[Illustration:  Tangier.]

At half-past six p.m. we weighed anchor and steamed out of the anchorage inside the New Mole.  In the straits the wind was fair, so the funnel was soon lowered, and the screw feathered, and we were racing along under sail alone.  Off Tarifa we found quite a gale blowing, and the wind continued fresh and fair throughout the night.

Thursday, May 17th.—­The strong fair wind dropped, and then came dead ahead, and off Cadiz we had to get up steam.  There was a strong wind off the mountains near Cape Sagres, and while Tom was below and the men were busy reefing the sails, we nearly ran ashore.  Luckily I noticed our danger and called Tom, who came up just in time to alter the helm, when the yacht went round like a top, though the shore was too close to be pleasant.  It only shows how easily an accident may occur.  Both our fishermen-mates could not bear to be idle, and always considered looking out an insignificant occupation, and so neglected that important duty to assist with the sails.

Off Cape St. Vincent it blew so hard that we were afraid we should be obliged to bring up in the bay of Sagres; but we found that it was only a land breeze, and that it was much smoother outside than we had expected.

Friday, May 18th.—­Fresh breeze.  We met many steamers going down the coast with all sail set.  After passing Cape Espichel the wind increased to a northerly gale, against which it was impossible to proceed.  We therefore put into Lisbon.  The mountains at the mouth of the Tagus, the tower and church of Belem, and the noble river itself looked even more beautiful in the sunset than my recollection led me to expect.  We soon landed and had an excellent dinner at the Hotel Braganza, where we had stayed before, and where we were at once recognised and cordially received by the same landlord and landlady we remembered in 1861.