While we were at breakfast the crows were most amusing and impertinent.  Every door and window was open, and they were perched on the top of the punkah, or on the iron crossbars supporting the roof, watching their opportunity to pounce down and carry off the bits left on our plates.  They did not seem to mind the waiters a bit, and, with their heads cocked on one side, looked as droll and saucy as possible.  People tell you all sorts of funny stories about them; but though they are very entertaining to watch, and apparently perfectly tame, it appears to be impossible to capture one alive.

By the time breakfast was over, we found that the ‘Sunbeam’ was already under way, and steaming about the anchorage; so it was not long before we were once more on board.  Going out of harbour we passed a large steamer whose passengers and crew cheered us and waved their handkerchiefs until we were out of sight, and with that pleasant homely sound ringing in our ears we bade a last farewell to Colombo, and started on another stage of our homeward voyage.  The heat was intense, and there was a roll outside which at once made me feel very uncomfortable.  There was no wind all the afternoon, and the sun sank into the sea, glorious and golden, as we took our last look at the lovely island of Ceylon, the land of spice and fragrance and beauty.

CHAPTER XXVI.

TO ADEN.

Heaven speed the canvas, gallantly unfurled To furnish and accommodate a world, To give the Pole the produce of the sun, And knit the unsocial climates into one.

Friday, April 6th.—­Our visit to Ceylon has been so delightful that I wish it could have been prolonged for a month, instead of lasting only a week; but in that case I should have preferred to select a cooler season of the year, when travelling is more practicable.  A most interesting journey could be made through the centre of the island to see the ancient cities, temples, and tanks, over the road from Matelle to Nalandi Senadoora, to the curious rock temple at Dambool, near which is the fortified rock of Sigiri, and a few miles further are the vast ruins of Topari, or Ponamira, the mediaeval capital of Ceylon.  It is full of wonderful ruins, some of them among the oldest in the world.  The Ranhol Dagoba, the Jayti Wana Rama, and the Galle Wihara and rock temple, carved out of the living rock, are alone worth a long journey to see.  Then think of visiting Anajapoora, the city of rubies, the sacred capital of the kingdom of ruins, on whose splendours even the Chinese travellers of the early ages used to expatiate with fervour.  From this point it would be easy to reach the peninsula of Jaffna, which has been peopled with Tammils for more than two thousand years.  It is the country par excellence of gardens exquisitely kept, and skilfully irrigated on the old Moorish system.  Here are grown all the ingredients for the making of curry, which are sent to all parts of this island and to Southern India.  The most important crop of all, however, is tobacco, whose excellence is famed throughout India, and of which the Rajah of Travancore holds the monopoly.