gauze and wood, like a gigantic meat-safe, and capable of containing, besides a large double bed, a chair and a table, so that its occupant is in a position to read and write in peace, even after dark.  This was the first time we had seen one of these contrivances.  By the direction of the comprador the house chairs were prepared, and coolies were provided to take us for an expedition round the town, while our things were being unpacked, and the necessary arrangements made for our comfort.  Macao is a thoroughly Portuguese-looking town, the houses being painted blue, green, red, yellow, and all sorts of colours.  It is well garrisoned, and one meets soldiers in every direction.  We passed the fort, and went up to the lighthouse, which commands a fine view over land and sea; returning home by a different way through the town again, which we entered just as the cathedral bell and the bells of all the churches were pealing the Ave Maria.  On our return we found a fire lighted and everything illuminated, and by half-past eight we had a capital impromptu dinner served.  Chinese Tommy, who waited on us, had decorated the table most tastefully with flowers.  Macao is a favourite resort for the European residents of Hongkong who are addicted to gambling.  The gentlemen of our party went to observe the proceedings, but to-night there were only a few natives playing at fan-tan—­a game which, though a great favourite with the natives, appears very stupid to a European.  The croupier takes a handful of copper cash and throws it upon the table; he then with chop-sticks counts the coins by fours, the betting being upon the possible number of the remainder.  It takes a long time to count a big handful, and you have only one, two, three, or four to back—­no colours or combinations, as at rouge-et-noir, or trente-et-quarante.

At Macao the sleep-disturbing watchmen, unlike those of Canton, come round every hour and beat two sharp taps on a drum at intervals of half a minute, compelling you to listen against your will, until the sound dies away in the distance for a brief interval.

Wednesday, March 7th.—­We started soon after ten o’clock on another exploring expedition, going first in chairs through the town, and across the peninsula to where we left the steamer yesterday.  Here we embarked—­chairs, bearers, and all, in a junk, evidently cleaned up for the occasion, for it was in beautiful order, and mats were spread under an awning upon deck.

All along beneath the deck was a cabin, between two and three feet high, which contained the altar, the kitchen, and the sleeping and living apartments of the family.  There was also a dear little baby, two months old, which seemed to take life very quietly, while its mother assisted its grandfather to row.