boats, especially, are so beautifully carved, painted, and decorated, that they look more as if they were floating about for ornament than for use.  Just about two o’clock our large steamer was brought up close alongside the wooden pier as easily as a skiff, but it must require some skill to navigate this crowded river without accident.  On the shore was an excited, vociferating crowd, but no one came to meet us; and we had begun to wonder what was to become of us—­what we should do, and whither we should go in a strange city, where we did not know a soul—­when we were relieved from our embarrassment by the appearance of the Vice-Consul, who came on board to meet a friend.  He told us that, owing to an expected ball, all the houses were unusually full, and that not one of the people who had been written to could take us in.  This was rather bad news, but we felt sure that something would turn up.

[Illustration:  Chinese Pagoda and Boats.]

We landed, and, after proceeding a short distance along the dirty street, came to a bridge with iron gates, which were thrown open by the sentry.  After crossing a dirty stream we found ourselves in the foreign settlement—­Shameen it is called—­walking on nice turf, under the shade of fine trees.  The houses of the merchants which line this promenade are all fine, handsome stone buildings, with deep verandahs.  At the back there are compounds with kitchen gardens, and under the trees dairy cows are grazing.  Every household appears to supply itself with garden and farm produce, and the whole scene has a most English, home-like appearance.  We went first to the Vice-Consul, and then to the Jardine Hong.  All the business houses retain the names of the firms to which they originally belonged, even when they have passed into entirely different hands.  After a little chat we went on to the Deacon Hong, where we found they had just done tiffin, and where we met some old friends.

By the kindness of various people, to whom we were introduced, we all found ourselves gradually installed in luxurious quarters.  As for us, we had a large room comfortably furnished in English fashion, with a bath-room attached.  All the houses are very much alike, and are fitted up in an equally comfortable style.

About three o’clock we started in five chairs, with Man-look-Chin for our guide.  Tom vigorously protested against not being allowed to use his own legs, but everybody assured him that it was impossible in the crowded streets of the city, so he had to submit to being carried.  No Chinaman, except those employed by foreigners, is allowed to cross any of the bridges over the stream, which completely surrounds the foreign settlement, and makes the suburb of Shameen a perfect island.  There are iron gates on each bridge, guarded by sentries.  The contrast in the state of things presented by the two sides of the bridge is most marvellous.  From the quiet country park, full of large villas and pretty gardens, you emerge