The sun went down, and it grew cold and dark before all was over.  The gentlemen walked back to the town, and I went down to the landing-place in solitary state, in a carriage driven by an Indian coachman, attended by a Chinese footman.  I was immediately surrounded by a vociferating crowd, each individual member of which was anxious to extol the merits of his own sampan.  The carriage having driven off, I was quite alone, and had some difficulty in dispersing them, and being allowed to enter the sampan I had selected.  However, I did succeed at last, and making my boatmen understand that they were to take me to ‘the white ship,’ as the yacht is generally called, returned on board to rest.

CHAPTER XXII.

TO CANTON UP THE PEARL RIVER.

Sails of silk and ropes of sandal Such as gleam in ancient lore, And the singing of the sailors, And the answer from the shore.

Tuesday, February 27th.—­Until half-past ten we were occupied in the pleasant task of reading news from home—­all good this time, I am happy to say.  At 10.30 we landed and went up the hill to breakfast with Sir Arthur and Miss Kennedy, and heard a good deal about the colony.  It is wonderful to think that thirty years ago it scarcely existed, and now it is a large and flourishing place, with splendid houses, institutions, roads, and gardens.  We were also most agreeably surprised by the beauty of the scenery.  It is really lovely, and, though the hills around are barren, wherever cultivation has been attempted, vegetation appears to flourish luxuriantly.  The climate cannot be very bad, judging by the healthy look of the residents and troops.  Typhoons seem to be the greatest drawback.  They come without any warning, and it is impossible to guard against them and their disastrous effects.  Thousands of lives, and millions of pounds’ worth of property, are destroyed in a few hours.  We have been shown some of the effects of a very severe typhoon that occurred in 1874.  It seems almost incredible that the mere force of the wind can snap iron posts in two, break granite columns, and blow off heavy roofs.

After breakfast the ceremony of presenting the departing Governor with a State umbrella took place.  It was a token of respect from ten thousand Chinese inhabitants of Hongkong, and is the greatest compliment that can be paid to any official.  It arrived in a large camphor-wood box, and the address, beautifully embroidered in gold thread and silk, was enclosed in a magnificent sandal-wood box about four feet long, covered with the richest carving.  Precisely at twelve some forty vermilion-coloured visiting cards were handed in, with the name of each member of the deputation written in Chinese and English characters.  The visitors were all received in a large drawing-room, whilst we ladies observed the proceedings through the doors leading from a smaller room.  It is not considered etiquette by the Chinese for ladies to appear at these public ceremonies.