one morning in one of these strange craft, the proprietor lifted up what I had thought was the bottom of the boat, and disclosed three or four children, packed away as tight as herrings, while under the seats were half-a-dozen people of larger growth.  The young mother of the small family generally rows with the smallest baby strapped on to her back, and the next-sized one in her arms, whom she is also teaching to row.  The children begin to row by themselves when they are about two years old.  The boys have a gourd, intended for a life-preserver, tied round their necks as soon as they are born.  The girls are left to their fate, a Chinaman thinking it rather an advantage to lose a daughter or two occasionally.

Many of these sampan people have never set foot on shore in their lives, and this water-life of China is one of the most extraordinary features of the country.  It is what strikes all travellers, and so has tempted me to a digression.

A lieutenant from the flag-ship came on board and piloted us into a snug berth, among the men-of-war, and close to the shore, where we were immediately surrounded by sampans, and pestered by pertinacious Chinese clambering on board.  The donkey-engine, with well-rigged hose, soon, however, cleared the decks, bulwarks, and gangways, and we were not bothered any more.

[Illustration:  How we were boarded by Chinese and dispersed them.]

After breakfast we landed on the Praya, a fine quay, extending the whole length of the town.  On it are situated many of the large stores, offices, and markets of the city.  The streets are wide and handsome, and the buildings in European style, with deep verandahs and arcades, all built of stone.  The town is built on the side of a hill, with ferny, moss-covered banks, overhung by tropical trees, close to some of the principal offices.  At the back are the mountains, the peak overhead, with the signal station on the top, always busily at work, making and answering signals with flags as ships and junks enter or leave the harbour.  Soldiers and sailors abound in the streets; and if it were not for the sedan-chairs and palanquins, in which everybody is carried about by Chinese coolies with enormous hats, one might easily fancy oneself at dear old Gib., so much do these dependencies of the Crown in foreign countries resemble one another, even in such opposite quarters of the globe.

We were very anxious to leave the yacht here and to go up to Canton; but we find there is no possible hotel at the latter place.  This is rather unfortunate, as, after our long residence on board, and all the knocking about at sea, the yacht requires repairing and refitting.  She looks very well painted white, and the change is a great comfort in hot weather; but white paint does not wear well, and in order to maintain her good looks she ought to receive a fresh coat at every port.  We can only go up the Pearl River at the very top of the tide, for in several places there are not fourteen feet of water over the shoals.  It will, therefore, take us two or three days to accomplish what the steamers do in six hours, and a great waste of time will be involved.