We were continually passing islands throughout the day, sometimes six or seven being in sight at one time, some with active and more with extinct volcanoes.  We saw smoke issuing from three of the cones, but by night we were too far off to notice the flames.

Wednesday, February 21st.—­The calm still continues.  The sun is bright, the sky blue, and the atmosphere warm.  During the night we passed Suwa Sima, Akuisi Sima, and Yoko Sima.

In the afternoon a light breeze sprang up; we stopped steaming, and before nightfall were bowling along smoothly at the rate of ten knots.

Thursday, February 22nd.—­The same delightful breeze continued throughout the night and most of the day.  By noon we had done 220 miles.  Everybody had on summer clothes, and we all felt ourselves gradually expanding after being shrivelled up by the cold of the last month.

I should never recommend anybody to come to Japan in the winter.  You do not see it at its best, I am sure, and the scanty protection afforded by houses and carriages makes travelling a penance rather than a pleasure.  Travellers, however, who wish to see Japan should do so at once; for the country is changing every day, and in three years more will be so Europeanised that little will be left worth seeing; or a violent anti-foreign revulsion of feeling may have taken place, and then the ports will be closed more strictly than they were even before the execution of the first treaty.  Nothing that we can give them do they really want; their exports are not large; and they have learned nearly all they care to know from the foreigner.  We have seen many of the European engineers of Japanese vessels, and they all agree in declaring that the natives learn to imitate anything they see done with wonderful quickness.  These men also averred that in a few years there will not be a single foreigner employed in Japan, as the Japanese will be quite in a position to dispense with such aid; and although the Government pay foreigners in a high position exceedingly well, their service offers no career to a young man.  His engagement is for so many years, and when his subordinates have learned to do the work he may go where he likes.  I am bound to add that I have heard the contrary opinion equally strongly expressed; but the facts I have mentioned make me lean rather to the former than to the latter side of the story.

Friday, February 23rd.—­Another pleasant day.  The wind dropped, fires were lighted, and at 4.30 p.m. we proceeded under steam.  Soon after seven, whilst we were at dinner, the table gave a sudden lurch, which was followed by the sound of rain on the deck above.  We found that a breeze had sprung up all at once, and had carried away some of our head-sails before they could possibly be taken in.  Even under close-reefed canvas we had a most uneasy night, racing along at from ten to twelve knots an hour.

Saturday, February 24th.—­We were rushing along, literally through the water all day, for there was plenty of it on deck—­not really any great quantity, but sufficient to make everything wet and uncomfortable.