To our astonishment, we also saw a large ship from Nova Scotia at anchor, the ‘Mary Fraser,’ although this is not a free port, nor within treaty limits.  The gig was lowered at once, and we rowed alongside to gain what intelligence could be learned, as well as to ascertain what likelihood there might be of our obtaining fresh supplies here.  The captain was very civil and kind, and volunteered to go on shore with us and act as our interpreter.  We landed opposite a large teahouse, where we were immediately surrounded by a crowd of Japanese, who stared at us eagerly and even touched us, only through curiosity.  They pursued us wherever we went, and when we entered a tea-house or shop the whole crowd immediately stopped, and if we retired to the back they surged all over the front premises, and penetrated into the interior as far as they could.  A most amusing scene took place at one of the tea-houses, where we went to order some provisions for the yacht.  It was rather a tedious process, and when we came out of the back room we found the whole of the front of the place filled by a gaping, curious crowd.  The proprietor suggested that they should retire at once, and an abrupt retreat immediately took place, the difficulties of which were greatly augmented by the fact that every one had left his high wooden shoes outside, along the front of the house.  The street was ankle deep in mud and half-melted snow, into which they did not like to venture in their stockings; but how the owners of two or three hundred pairs of clogs, almost exactly alike, ever found their own property again I do not understand, though they managed to clear out very quickly.  I believe Muriel and I were the chief objects of attraction.  They told us that no European lady or child had ever been at Simono-seki before.  It is not a treaty port, so no one is allowed to land, except from a man-of-war, without special permission, which is not often given; it is, besides, the key to the Inland Sea, and the authorities are very jealous about any one seeing the forts.  There is only one European resident here, connected with the telegraph; and a dull time he must have of it.  The wire crosses the Straits a few miles higher up.

The streets appeared to be full of soldiers, patrolling singly and in pairs, with fixed bayonets.  The temples were being used as barracks, and the principal buildings seemed to be strongly guarded; but otherwise everything appeared to go on as usual.

We waded through the mud and snow to the proverbial end of all things, always followed by the same crowd, and stared at by all the inhabitants of the houses we passed.  They seemed very timid, and inclined to run away directly we turned round.  Still, their curiosity, especially respecting my sealskin jacket and serge dress, was insatiable, and I constantly felt myself being gently stroked and touched.

We returned to the yacht, and whilst we were at lunch some officers came on board to say that, this not being a treaty port, we could not purchase any provisions, except through them, and with special permission.  This was soon arranged, and our visitors were rewarded for their trouble by being shown over the yacht.