Here we said good-bye to Sir Harry Parkes, and returned across the town by another route to our hotel to lunch, after which we made another expedition to one or two more temples, and then to a pawnbroker’s shop, in the heart of the city, which had been strongly recommended to us.  The exterior did not look promising; the shop itself was small and dirty; and they had to take some very filthy garments out of the way before we could enter.  Once inside, however, it was a very different story.  They showed us splendid old embroideries, and quantities of second-hand court dresses, embroidered in gold, silver, and colours, with exquisite designs.  The Empress has thirteen ladies of honour, who wear their best dresses only twice, and then sell them:  hence the pawnbrokers abundant stock.

Wherever we went a large but perfectly civil crowd followed us, and people ran on before to tell others to come to their doors and look at us, though we were under the charge of an officer and two men.  It was now getting dark, and we were very tired; so we at last turned back, and once more climbed those weary steps to our hotel.  To-night there is some fete going on in this suburb, and the whole place is alive with lights, dancing, music, and tum-tums.

After dinner all our purchases arrived, each accompanied by at least four or five men.  Other people had heard of our visit, and had brought more things for us to look at; so that the room soon resembled a bazaar.  At last we got rid of them, having settled that they should pack our things and take them down to Kobe, where they would be paid for.  The Japanese shopkeepers, though difficult to deal with, are incorruptible when once the bargain is made.  They pack most carefully, frequently adding boxes, bags, and baskets, not originally included in the purchase, in order that the articles may travel more safely.  The smallest article is sure to be put in, and the greatest care is taken of everything, even if they know you do not mean to open the cases for months.

If it were only warmer, how delightful it would all be!  The cold spoils everything to a certain extent.  At night we have to choose whether to be half frozen in our beds, or stifled with the fumes of charcoal from the hibatchis.

Thursday, February 8th.—­The sunrise over the city, with the river and mountains beyond, was superb.  We breakfasted at eight; but even by that hour the courtyard and passage were crowded with vendors of curiosities of all sorts, and no doubt great bargains might have been picked up.  But we had no time to lose, for our train started at 9.30, and we had a delightfully rapid drive to the station through the sunny streets of Kioto.

Arrived at Kobe, we went first to lunch with some friends, and immediately after hastened on board to receive the foreign Ministers and other friends; and did not land again that evening.