We walked along the river bank, and crossed to the other side just below the rapids, jumping over the narrow channels through which the water hurried and rushed.  Some of our attendant girls carried Muriel and the dogs, and, springing barefooted from rock to rock, led us across the stream and up the precipitous banks on the other side.  There is a sort of hotel here, kept by a Chinaman, where everything is scrupulously clean, and the food good though plain.  It is rather more like a lodging-house than an hotel, however.  You hire your rooms, and are expected to make special arrangements for board.  Before we got back to the yacht it had become dark, the moon had risen, and we could see the reflection in the sky of the fires in the crater of Kilauea.  I do hope the volcano will be active to-morrow.  It is never two days in the same condition, and visitors have frequently remained in the neighbourhood of the crater for a week without seeing an eruption.

The starlit sky, the bright young moon, and the red cloud from Kilauea, floating far above our heads, made up a most beautiful scene from the deck of the ‘Sunbeam.’

Saturday, December 23rd.—­The boatman who brought us off last night had told us that Saturday was market-day at Hilo, and that at five o’clock the natives would come in from the surrounding country in crowds to buy their Sunday and Christmas Day provisions, and to bring their own produce for sale.  We accordingly gave orders that the boat should come for us at a quarter to five, shortly before which we got up and went on deck.  We waited patiently in the dark until half-past five, when, no boat appearing from the shore, the dingy was manned and we landed.  The lights in the town were all out, the day had hardly dawned, and there were no signs of life to be seen.  At last we met two men, who told us we should find the market near the river, and offered to show us the way; but when we arrived at the spot they had indicated we found only a large butcher’s shop, and were informed that the regular market for fish, fruit, and other things was held at five o’clock in the afternoon instead of in the morning.  We had thus had all our trouble for nothing, and the non-appearance of the boat was fully explained.

Presently we met a friend who took us to his home.  It was a pretty walk, by the side of the river and through numerous gardens, fresh with the morning dew.  He gave us the latest news from the United States, and presented us with oranges and flowers, with which we returned to the yacht.  We were on board again by seven, and, having packed up our things and sent them ashore, had an early breakfast, and landed, in readiness for our excursion to Kilauea.  The baggage animals ought already to have started, but we found they had been kept back, in case we should happen to forget anything.  Quite a crowd assembled to see us off, and a good deal of gossip had to be got through, so that it was half-past nine before we were all mounted and fairly off.