[Illustration:  Chaetodon Besantii]

At six o’clock the pilot sent word that it was no longer safe to go out; but steam was already up, and Tom therefore decided to go outside the reef and there wait for the people and goods that were still on shore.  At this moment the saddles appeared in one direction, and the rest of the party in another.  They were soon on board, the anchor was raised, and we began to steam slowly ahead, taking a last regretful look at Papeete as we left the harbour.  By the time we were outside it was dark, the pilot went ashore, and we steamed full speed ahead.  After dinner, and indeed until we went to bed, at half-past eleven, the lights along the shore were clearly visible, and the form of the high mountains behind could be distinguished.

Good-bye, lovely Tahiti!  I wonder if I shall ever see you again; it makes me quite sad to think how small is the chance of my doing so.

CHAPTER XV.

TAHITI TO SANDWICH ISLANDS.—­KILAUEA BY DAY AND BY NIGHT.

Methinks it should have been impossible Not to love all things in a world so filled, Where the breeze warbles, and the mute still air Is music, slumbering on her instrument.

Saturday, December 9th.—­After leaving the harbour of Papeete we passed close to the island of Eimeo, on which we have gazed so often and with so much pleasure during the past week.  It is considered the most beautiful island of the Georgian group, and we all regretted that we were unable to spare the time to visit it.  From afar it is rather like the dolomite mountains in the Tyrol, and it is said that the resemblance is even more striking on a near approach.  The harbour is a long narrow gorge between high mountains, clothed with palms, oranges, and plantains, and is one of the most remarkable features of the place.  Huahine is the island of which the Earl and the Doctor speak, in ‘South Sea Bubbles,’ in terms of such enthusiasm, and Rarotonga is the head and centre of all the missionary efforts of the present time in these parts.

The weather to-day was fine, though we had occasional squalls of wind and rain.  We were close-hauled, and the motion of the vessel was violent and disagreeable.  I was very sea-sick, and was consoled to find that several of the men were so too.  A head sea—­or nearly so—­is quite a novel experience for us of late, and we none of us like the change.

Sunday, December 10th.—­Another squally day.  Still close-hauled, and even then not on our course.  We had a short service at eleven, but it was as much as I could do to remain on deck.

Monday, December 11th.—­Very like yesterday.  We passed close to Flint and Vostok Islands, at the former of which I should have much liked to land.  But it was a good deal to leeward of us; there is no anchorage, and the landing, which is always difficult and sometimes impossible, has to be effected in native surf-boats.  It would have been interesting to see a guano island, of which this is a perfect specimen.