leading to a superior sort of house, built in the native style, and surrounded, as usual, by bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, banana, mango, and guava trees.  We were conducted into the one large room, which contained two four-post bedsteads and four mattresses, laid on the floor, two or three trunks, and a table in the corner, on which were writing materials and a few books.  The chief himself spoke a very little English, his son an equally small amount of French; so the conversation languished, and after a decent interval we rose to depart.  Our host asked if he might ‘come and see my ship,’ and procured pen, ink, and paper—­not of the best quality—­for me to write an order for him do so, ‘in case lady not at home.’  He also presented me with some pictures of soldiers, drawn by his son—­a boy about eleven years old, of whom he seemed very proud, and expressed his regret that we could not prolong our stay, at the same time placing at our disposal the whole house and garden, including a fat sow and eleven little pigs.

Several other visitors had arrived by this time, one of whom was on horseback, and, as I was rather tired, he was asked if he would kindly allow me to ride down to the landing place.  He replied that he would lend the horse to a gentleman, but not to me, as the saddle was not suitable.  I explained that this made no difference to me, and mounted, though I did not attempt to follow the fashion of the native ladies here, who ride like men.  Our new friend was quite delighted at this, and volunteered himself to show us something of the neighbourhood.  Accordingly, leading my—­or rather his—­horse, and guiding him carefully over all the rough places, he took us through groves and gardens to the grounds belonging to the royal family, in which were plantations of various kinds of trees, and a thick undergrowth of guava.  After an enjoyable little expedition we returned to the yacht at about half-past seven, accompanied by the small boy who had been carrying our special purchases from the market all this time, and by a little tail of followers.

At half-past eight we breakfasted, so as to be ready for the service at the native church at ten o’clock; but several visitors arrived in the interval, and we had rather a bustle to get off in time, after all.  We landed close to the church, under the shade of an hibiscus, whose yellow and orange flowers dropped off into the sea and floated away amongst the coral rocks, peeping out of the water here and there.  The building appeared to be full to overflowing.  The windows and doors were all wide open, and many members of the congregation were seated on the steps, on the lawn, and on the grassy slope beyond, listening to a discourse in the native language.  Most of the people wore the native costume, which, especially when made of black stuff and surmounted by a little sailor’s hat, decorated with a bandana handkerchief or a wreath of flowers, was very becoming.  Sailors’ hats are universally worn, and are generally made