We had to give the island a wide berth in rowing round it, on account of the heavy rollers, which seemed to come from every side, breaking in surf against the dark brown cliffs, and throwing columns of white spray, from which the brilliant sunshine was reflected in rainbow hues, high into the air.  As we proceeded matters looked worse and worse, and the motion of the boat became so disagreeable that both Muriel and I were very ill.  At last we came to a spot where we could see some people sitting on the shore, and several others, who had probably come over from the other side to meet us, running swiftly down the sides of the cliffs to the beach.  The island was of a different character from the one we had already visited, and was evidently of volcanic origin.  No coral was anywhere to be seen, but there were big rocks jutting out at intervals into the sea all round it, one of which seemed large enough to afford us a sort of shelter in landing.  The natives waved and pointed towards the channel beyond this rock, and one or two swam out to meet us; but we soon found that the channel would not be wide enough to admit our big boat, though it was no doubt sufficient for a light canoe, drawing some two inches of water.  We therefore reluctantly turned away and resumed our uneasy coasting voyage, in the course of which we passed some nearly leafless trees, full of white patches, too large for flowers, which afterwards turned out to be booby-birds, who here find a resting-place.  They are so numerous that it is hardly possible to walk beneath the trees without treading on their eggs.

Having completed the circuit of the island, we found ourselves once more opposite the spot where we had first thought of landing, and the tide being by this time a little higher, we decided to make another attempt.  Some of the natives, seeing us approach, plunged into the water as before, and seized the gunwale of the boat, while others, on shore, brought down rollers to put beneath our keel.  We went in on the top of a big wave, and thus at last found ourselves—­boat and all—­high and dry on the beach of Maitea.

The people came down to meet us, and conducted us to the house of the chief, who, with his pretty wife, received us kindly, but with much gravity and dignity.  Mats were placed for me to sit upon, wreaths were offered me for my head and neck, and cocoa-nut milk to drink.  We wished for some bananas, and they immediately cut down a tree in order to obtain a bunch.  Cocoa-nuts were at the same time thrown down from the trees, and a collection of fruit, poultry, and meat—­the latter consisting of the immemorial hog—­was laid at our feet, as a present from the chief.  The rest of the natives brought us pearls, shells, mother-of-pearl, small canoes, fish-hooks, young boobies, and all sorts of things, for barter; but the chief himself refused any return for his gift.  Perhaps the greatest curiosity they offered us was about six fathoms of fine twine, made from human hair.  Before these islands were visited by Europeans, this was the material from which fishing-lines were made; but it is now rarely used, and is consequently very difficult to procure.  The young boobies they brought us looked just like a white powder-puff, and were covered with down far thicker and softer than any swan’s down I ever saw.