A ride of about twenty minutes in the bullock sleigh, up a steep hill, by the side of a rocky torrent, whose banks were overgrown with caladiums and vines, brought us to our destination, Til, whence we had a splendid view of the town and bay stretching beneath us.  During the ascent we passed several cottages, whose inhabitants stood airing themselves on the threshold after the great heat of the day, and through the open doorways we occasionally got a peep into the gardens beyond, full of bright flowers and luxuriant with vines, fig-trees, and bananas.  As we sat in the terrace garden at Til we enjoyed the sweet scent of the flowers we could no longer see, and listened to the cool splash of the water in the fountain below; whilst Allnutt, with unceasing energy, searched amongst the bushes for moths, of which he found a large number.

We jogged down the hill a great deal faster than we had come up, stopping only for a short time in the now more than ever crowded ‘Praca,’ to listen to one or two airs played by the Portuguese band, before we got back to the yacht at about half-past ten.

Next morning we were off to the fish-market by seven o’clock, but it was not a good time for our visit, as there had been no moon on the previous night; and, though there were fish of various kinds, saw nothing specially worthy of notice.  The picturesque costumes of the people were, however, interesting.  We afterwards went to the fruit-market, though it was not specially worth seeing, for most of the fruit and vegetables are brought in boats from villages on the sea-shore; and, as it is necessary to wait until the sea-breeze springs up, they do not arrive until midday.  After our walk the children and I went down to the beach and bathed, taking care not to go too far out on account of the sharks, of which we had been warned.  We undressed and dressed in tents, not unlike clothes-horses, with a bit of matting thrown over them, in which the heat was intense.  The beach is very steep; and as one gets out of one’s depth immediately, indifferent swimmers put on a couple of bladders—­which stick out behind their backs and produce a strange effect—­or else take a bathing-man into the water with them.  I preferred the latter course; and we all had a pleasant bathe.

[Illustration:  Fish Carrier]

The natives seem almost amphibious in their habits, and the yacht is surrounded all day by boats full of small boys, who will dive to any depth for sixpence, a dozen of them spluttering and fighting for the coin in the water at the same time.  They will go down on one side of the yacht too, and bob up on the other, almost before you have time to run across the deck to witness their reappearance.

The Loo Rock, with its old fortress, close to our anchorage, forms a picturesque object; and the scene from the yacht, enlivened by the presence of numerous market-boats, laden with fruit and vegetables, is very pretty.  We lie about 150 yards from the shore, just under Mr. Danero’s quinta.  The cliff just here is overhung with bougainvillaeas, geraniums, fuchsias, aloes, prickly pears, and other flowers, which grow luxuriantly quite down to the water’s edge, wherever they can contrive to find a root-hold.