“Into each life some rain must fall,
  Some days must be dark and dreary.”

We solace ourselves with the most fulsome mutual adulation, uncriticised by the stolid coachman; and as we roll down the long descent back to Eaux Chaudes, our disappointment wears gradually away; at Hell Bridge, we have become quite angelic; and we respond to Madame Baudot’s condoling welcome almost with hilarity.

VII.

The last wrinkles of regret are smoothed away by a sumptuous luncheon.  It competes even with that at Laruns, which we have set up as henceforth the standard, the model, the criterion, the ultimate ideal, of all luncheons.  Of a truth, this chef is proving himself a worthy son-in-law.

It has set in for a rainy afternoon, and this comforts us surprisingly.  If it had cleared after all, on our return here to Eaux Chaudes, and the blue had opened into bloom overhead, I do not know what would have been said of the climate, but we should have held very strong opinions concerning it.  As it is, we can lay the fault on Fate, not on any misplanning.  This is an inestimable relief.  We did our part.  We went more than half way.  The blame was Fate’s, not ours.  Fate is the one, therefore, that merits the abuse.  It is a solace to put the blame squarely where it belongs, and a greater solace still to abuse the absent.

But need we spend the rest of the day at Eaux Chaudes?  The hotel is cosy and seems almost a home, but the wet little street has nothing to invite us.  We are not going to Gabas again.  On that point we are resolved.  The Pic du Midi has forfeited all claims.  Goust we can return to visit.  We call another caucus,—­and in an hour, warm farewells have been spoken to Madame, and we are atop of our breack, on the watery way to Eaux Bonnes.

CHAPTER X.

THE GOOD WATERS OF THE ARQUEBUSADE.

     "Tant que l’on est aux baings, il fault vivre comme ung enfant,
     sans nul soucy."—­MARGUERITE OF ANGOULEME.

The road toward Eaux Bonnes retraces its steps from Eaux Chaudes almost to Laruns, before it swings off into the other southward gorge.  The ride in all is about four miles,—­two on each branch of the V. Between the resorts is also a foot-path over the Gourzy, recommended in fine weather; it is steep and said to be toilsome, but the view is reputed a full compensation.

This whole valley, comprising the main depression running north from Laruns and the narrower fissures split through to Eaux Chaudes and Eaux Bonnes, was in Miocene times the bed of a huge glacier.  It is known as the Val d’Ossau,—­“the vale where the bears come down.”  Bears are still met with, it is said, in the vast forests about the foot of the Midi, but they are shy and scarce.  The izard,—­the chamois of the Pyrenees,—­is more frequently seen and often hunted.  This valley