The first of these is to Morlaaes, the earliest capital of Bearn.  The distance is seven miles.  Though the road is flat and tame, the ride affords superb prospects of the line of the Pyrenees, and these culminate at the top of the hill just before descending to the village.  Here the panorama is even finer than from Pau.  Easterly ranges have come into the field.  The sweep of the mountain barrier in sight is a full hundred miles, and the waste of intervening plains, no longer hidden by coteaux, increases the impression of distance without lessening that of height.  The greater peaks rise now into better proportion.  Mont Perdu and the Vignemale loom above their neighbors, and best of all is seen far away the crown at least of the great Maladetta.

You must enjoy Morlaaes wholly for its past.  You cannot enjoy it for its present.  It is a poor, dejected, straggling street, noticeable only for mud and stones and dun-coated hovels.  It does not, like Fuenterrabia, retain the picturesqueness of its antiquity.  There, it is the old town’s to-day that carries us delightfully back into its yesterday.  But at Morlaaes there is neither to-day nor yesterday.

For the prime of this place antedates old Fuenterrabia by many a hundred years.  The latter may come to the former’s estate as many centuries hence.  Orthez is but in middle life, Pau a summer stripling, in the presence of this wreck of time.  Poor Morlaaes!  Thou hast seen thy long successor rise and reign and fall, succeeded in its turn by the brilliant capital that now sends hither its subjects to scoff at thy driveling old age.

To share the mood of this grey spot you must travel far back, down its dim retrospect.  You must retrace long, successive eras, sensitive to the spirit of each as you pass.  You must cross the sixteenth century, brightening into humanity yet still un-human,—­the vivid, reckless King of Navarre its type.  You must penetrate beyond the twilight where Count Gaston’s armor flashes across from the brutal towers of Orthez, lawless and splendid; you must grope back farther into the gloom, four hundred years still, before you see the shadowy Morlaaes in its full stature, proud, powerful, rude, rich,—­the capital of old Bearn.

Nine hundred years ago.  Mohammed’s name and power were still new.  Charles Martel had just saved Europe from the Saracens.  England had not been recreated by a Norman Conqueror.  The Crusades were still undreamed of.  Art, science, letters, were in custody in the East.  These armed children ran riot,—­passionate, intense, uncontrolled, loving fight and finery as the Trojans, or the Norse heroes of the Sagas.