a la Rebecca. Some of their faces were
strikingly intelligent, and their figures eminently
graceful. The population is almost purely Hindoo;
and I think the Hindoo females are more delicate in
their forms than the Mussulmanees.” The
Rajah was, however, absent on a sporting excursion,
and the darogah refused to provide the colonel with
lodgings, alleging his master’s orders that
no Feringhis should be allowed in the town; and it
was not till after a long altercation, of which the
colonel gives himself greatly the best, that he succeeded
in finding quarters in the house of a
bunneea
or grocer. But the next day’s march (for
Bundelcund is almost as thickly set with sovereign
princes as Saxony itself) carried him out of the realm
of this inhospitable potentate into the territories
of the Rajah of Jalone, the once noted patron and
protector of Thuggee, by whose agent he was most politely
received at Mahoba, a once splendid but now ruined
city, celebrated for its artificial lakes, which in
long-past times were formed by a famous Rajpoot prince
named Purmal, by damming up the narrow gorges of the
hills. “Never had I seen, in the plains
of India, a prospect more enchanting! Conceive
a beautiful sheet of calm, clear, silvery water, of
several miles in circumference, occasionally agitated
by the splashing leaps of large fishes, or the gradual
alighting of noble swan-like aquatic birds: its
margin broken as if by the most skilful artist; now
running into the centre, and ending in most romantic
low rocky hills, covered with trees and embellished
with black, antique Jain temples, deserted probably
for hundreds of years, and at present the retreat of
the elegant peafowl; in other places embanked with
huge blocks of cut granite, embrowned by the shade
of magnificent trees, under which small bright Hindoo
temples, carefully whitewashed, might be seen in the
shade; or bounded by abrupt rocky promontories, surmounted
by many-pillared temples in ruins, hanging in the
sky. A fine rich sunset gave an exquisite richness
and classic magnificence to the scene. Many little
boys with rod and line were ensnaring the sweet little
singhee, or the golden
rohoo or carp—bringing
back to my heart the days, when, stealing from school,
I was wont to sit on the rocks of the Dee, at Craglug,
near Aberdeen, watching the motion of a float that
was not under water once in the twenty-four hours.”
The colonel’s laudable habit of associating
freely, whenever opportunity occurred, with the natives,
gave him considerable insight into the state of the
country, where the caprices of the native princes were
not then much interfered with, and which consequently,
as he says, “was pretty much in the situation
of the Emerald Isle;” and verily if the tale
told him by the Hindoo gosain or priest at
Jourahoo, of the murder of his predecessor in the
temple, and the impunity of the robbers, were correctly
related, the Bundelas have not much to learn in the
arts of bloodshed and depredation. “This
village being a sort of corner to the territories of
several Rajahs, robberies, murders, and all other diversions,
are of daily occurrence; and when enquiries are made;
each territory throws the blame on its neighbour.”
The maxim of government most current in Bundelcund,
both with rulers and ruled, seems indeed to have been—