Et cetera, et cetera.  For the price stated by his host, M. Dumas finds himself possessor of a magnificent corricolo of a bright red colour, with green trees and animals painted thereon.  Two most fiery and impatient steeds, half concealed by harness, bells, and ribands, are included in his purchase.  After a vain attempt to drive himself, the phantom coursers having apparently a supreme contempt for whipcord, he gives up the reins to a professional charioteer, and commences his perambulations.  His first visit is to the Chiaja, the favourite promenade of the aristocracy and of foreigners; his second to the Toledo, the street of shops and loungers; his third to the Forcella, frequented by lawyers and their clients.  He makes a chapter, and a long one too, out of each street; but not in the way usually adopted by those pitiless tour-writers who overwhelm their readers with dry architectural details, filling a page with a portico, and a chapter with a chapel—­not letting one off a pane of a painted window or line of worm-eaten inscription however often those things may have been described already by previous travellers.  M. Dumas prefers men to things as subjects for his pen; and the three chapters above named are filled with curious illustrations of Neapolitan manners, customs, and character.  Apropos of the Toledo, we are introduced to the well-known impresario, Domenico Barbaja, who had his palazzo in that street, and who, from being waiter in a coffeehouse at Milan, became the manager of three theatres at one time, namely, San Carlo, La Scala, and the Vienna opera.  He appears to have been a man of great energy and originality of character, concealing an excellent heart under the roughest manners and most choleric of tempers.

“It would be impossible,” says M. Dumas, “to translate into any language the abuse with which Barbaja used to overwhelm the singers and musicians at his theatres when they displeased him.  Yet not one of them bore him malice for it, knowing that, if they had the least triumph, Barbaja would be the first to embrace and congratulate them:  if they were unsuccessful, he would console them with the utmost delicacy:  if they were ill, he would watch over them with the tenderness of a father or brother.  The fortune which he had amassed, little by little, and by strenuous exertions, he spent in the most generous and princely manner.  His palace, his villa, and his table, were open to all.

“His genius was of a peculiar and extraordinary kind.  Education he had none:  he was unable to write the commonest letter, and did not know a note of music; yet he would give his composers the most valuable hints, and dictate with admirable skill the plan of a libretto.  His own voice was of the harshest and most inharmonious texture; but by his advice and instructions he formed some of the first singers in Italy.  His language was a Milanese patois; but he found means to make himself excellently