fretful about going in, do not undertake to drive him, but give him a little less room outside, by gently closing in around him.  Do not raise your arms, but let them hang at your side; for you might as well raise a club.  The horse has never studied anatomy, and does not know but they will unhinge themselves and fly at him.  It he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run; and if he gets past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and he will soon find that you are not going to hurt him; and you can soon walk so close around him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get farther from you.  As soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse and shut the door.  This will be his first notion of confinement—­not knowing how to get in such a place, nor how to get out of it.  That he may take it as quietly as possible, see that the shed is entirely free from dogs, chickens, or anything that would annoy him; then give him a few ears of corn, and let him remain alone fifteen or twenty minutes, until he has examined his apartment, and has become reconciled to his confinement.

TIME TO REFLECT.

And now, while your horse is eating those few ears of corn, is the proper time to see that your halter is ready and all right, and to reflect on the best mode of operations; for, in the horsebreaking, it is highly important that you should be governed by some system.  And you should know before you attempt to do anything, just what you are going to do, and how you are going to do it.  And, if you are experienced in the art of taming wild horses, you ought to be able to tell within a few minutes the length of time it would take you to halter the colt, and learn him to lead.

THE KIND OF HALTER.

Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it made so that it will not draw tight around his nose if he pulls on it.  It should be of the right size to fit his head easily and nicely; so that the nose band will not be too tight or too low.  Never put a rope halter on an unbroken colt under any circumstances whatever.  They have caused more horses to hurt or kill themselves, than would pay for twice the cost of all the leather halters that have ever been needed for the purpose of haltering colts.  It is almost impossible to break a colt that is very wild with a rope halter, without having him pull, rear and throw himself, and thus endanger his life; and I will tell you why.  It is just as natural for a horse to try to get his head out of anything that hurts it, or feels unpleasant, as it would be for you to try to get your hand out of a fire.  The cords of the rope are hard and cutting; this makes him raise his head and draw on it, and as soon as he pulls, the slip noose (the way rope halters are always made) tightens, and pinches his nose, and then he will struggle for life, until, perchance, he throws himself; and who would have his horse throw himself, and run the risk of breaking his neck, rather than pay the price of a leather halter.  But this is not the worst.  A horse that has once pulled on his halter, can never be as well broke as one that has never pulled at all.