[Rigolette] When the news was received that we were a day ahead, the race began in earnest, the captain of the “Curlew” entering heartily into the sport and doing his best to overhaul the speedy Yankee schooner.  When about half way up to Rigolette, on the third day from Battle Harbor, as we were drifting slowly out of “Seal Bight,” into which we had gone the previous night to escape the numerous icebergs that went grinding by, the black smoke, and later the spars of the mail steamer were seen over one of the numerous rocky little islets that block the entrance to the bight.  The steamer’s flag assured us that it was certainly the mail steamer, and many and anxious were the surmises as to whether our rivals were on board, and earnest were the prayers for a strong and favoring wind.  It soon came, and we bowled along at a rattling pace, our spirits rising as we could see the steamer, in shore, gradually dropping astern.  Towards night we neared Domino Run, and losing sight of the steamer, which turned out to make a stop at some wretched little hamlet that had been shut out from the outer world for nine months, at about the same time lost our breeze also.  But the wind might rise again, and time was precious, so a bright lookout was kept for bergs, and we drifted on through the night.  The next morning a fringe of islands shut our competitor from sight, but after an aggravating calm in the mouth of the inlet, we felt a breeze and rushed up towards Rigolette, only to meet the steamer coming out while we were yet several hours from that place.

Here we had our first experience with the immense deer-flies of Labrador.  Off Mt.  Gnat they came in swarms and for self-protection each man armed himself with a small wooden paddle and slapped at them right and left, on the deck, the rail, another fellow’s back or head, in fact, wherever one was seen to alight.  The man at the wheel was doubly busy, protecting himself, with the assistance of ready volunteers, from their lance-like bites, and steering the quickly moving vessel.

At last the white buildings and flag-staff which mark all the Hudson Bay Co.’s posts in Labrador, came in sight, snugly nestled in a little cove, beneath a high ridge lying just to the north-west of it, and soon we were at anchor.  Our intention was to get into the cove, but the six knot current swept us by the mouth before the failing breeze enabled us to get in.

After supper the necessary formal call was made on the factor, Mr. Bell, by the professor, armed with a letter of introduction from the head of the company in London, and escorted by three or four of the party.  A rather gruff reception, at first met with, became quite genial, when it appeared that we wanted no assistance save a pilot, and called only to cultivate the acquaintance of the most important official in Labrador.

With a promise to renew the acquaintance upon our return, we left, and after a hard pull and an exciting moment in getting the boat fast alongside, on account of the terrific current, we reached the deck and reported.