We tried the exploring boats very thoroughly at Chateau Bay, three of us getting caught about six miles from the vessel in quite a blow, and the well-laden boat proved herself very seaworthy.  When loaded, she still draws but little water, and is good in every way for the trip.

This letter was begun in the fine breeze off Newfoundland, but could not be mailed till the port of entry and post-office of Labrador, Battle Harbor, was reached.  A week was consumed in getting from our first anchorage in Labrador to this harbor, as the captain was unaccustomed to icebergs, and properly decided to take no risks with them in the strong shifting currents and thick weather of the eastern end of the straits.  The wind was ahead for several days, and the heavy squalls coming off the land in quick succession made us fear the wind would drop and leave us banging around in the fog that usually accompanies a calm spell, so we kept close to harbors and dodged in on the first provocation.

The season is three weeks late this year; the first mail boat has not yet arrived, though last year at this time she was on her second trip.  The last report from the North—­down the coast they call it—­that went to Newfoundland and St. John’s was “that it was impassable ice this side Hamilton Inlet.”  A vessel—­a steam sealing bark—­though, that was here yesterday and has gone to Sidney, C.B.I., reports now that the coast is clear to Hopedale.  Beyond we know nothing about it.

On Henley and Castle Islands, at the mouth of Chateau Bay, are basaltic table-lands about half a mile across, perfectly flat on top and about two hundred feet high.  We walked around one, went to its top and secured specimens from the columns.  The famous “natural images” of men, are, to my eye, not nearly so good as the descriptions lead one to expect.  The history of the place could hardly be guessed from its present barren, desolate, poverty-stricken appearance; but the remains of quite a fort on Barrier Point show some signs of former and now departed glory.  It seems that it has been under the dominion of England, France and the United States, all of whom took forceful possession of it, and England and France have governed it.  An American privateer once sacked the place, carrying away, I believe, about 3,500 pounds worth of property.  Now, a very small population eke out a wretched existence by fishing, only a few remaining, living at the heads of the bays, in the winter, and most of them going home to Newfoundland.

The icebergs are in great plenty.  I counted eighty from the basaltic table-land at one time, and the professor saw even more at once.  Belle Isle is in plain sight from this place, looking like Monhegan from the Georges Islands, though possibly somewhat longer.