of all others we most closely resemble in essential
particulars—namely, the Northern Germans.
The Prussians have been called—and that,
too, with a good deal of truth—the Yankees
of Europe; and if the term “Yankees” means,
as it usually does in European parlance, the entire
population of the United States, we citizens of the
great republic have every right to feel proud of the
comparison. Yet, with all our genuine respect
and admiration for the Prussians, there are but few
American tourists who take kindly to that people or
their country. The lack of the external polish,
the graceful manners and winning ways of the Parisians
is severely felt by the chance tarrier within the gates
of Berlin. We accord our fullest meed of honor
to the great conquering nation of Europe, to its wonderful
system of education, its admirable military discipline,
and its sturdy opposition to superstition and ignorance
in their most aggressive form. And yet we do not
like Prussia or the Prussians. We scoff at Berlin,
planted on a sandy plain and new with the thriving,
aggressive newness of some of our own cities.
We long for the soft shadows of antiquity, the dim
twilight of past glories, to overhang our daily path
as we journey onward through the storied lands of
the ancient world. We have enough of bright progressive
prosperity at home. Something of the feeling
of the artist, who turns from the trim, elegant damsel
arrayed in the latest fashion to paint the figure of
a beggar-girl draped in picturesque rags, hangs about
us as we travel. It is only to Paris—Paris
beautiful in its strange blending of smoky ruins and
splendid, freshly-erected mansions—that
we can pardon the white glare of newly-opened streets,
the Vandal desecration of antique landmarks, the universal
sacrifice of old memories, historic associations and
antique picturesqueness on that altar of modern progress
whose high priest was Baron Haussmann and whose divinity
was Napoleon III.
We love Paris, we Americans abroad, and we like the
Parisians. One side of our affection grows and
strengthens and sends forth new shoots with every
passing day. The longer one lives in Paris the
better one loves it. Its beauty becomes part
and parcel of one’s daily life. The mighty
sweep of palace and arcade and museum and church, the
plash of sunlit fountains, the rustle and the shimmer
of resplendent foliage, the grace of statue, the grandeur
of monument, the far-stretching splendor of brilliant
boulevard and bustling street,—all these
make up a picture whose lines are engraven on our
heart of hearts. Often, passing along the street,
some far-off vista, some effect of light and color,
some single point of view, strikes on the sense with
new and startling beauty, and we pause to gaze and
to admire, and to exclaim for the thousandth time,
How fair is Paris!