Substitutes for Paper are chips of wood, inner bark of trees, calico and other tissues, lead plates, and slaty stone.  I knew an eminent engineer who habitually jotted his pencil memoranda on the well-starched wristband of his left shirt-sleeve, pushing back the cuff of his coat in order to expose it.  The natives in some parts of Bengal, when in the jungle, write on any large smooth leaf with the broken-off moist end of a leaf-stalk or twig of any milky sap-producing tree.  They then throw dust upon it, which makes the writing legible.  If the leaf be so written upon, the writing is imperceptible until the dust is sprinkled.  This plan might, therefore, be of use for concealed writing.  A person could write on the leaf without detaching it from the tree. (See Sympathetic Ink.”)

Prepared Paper, for use with pencils of metallic lead (see “Pencils"), is made by rubbing a paste of weak glue and bones burnt to whiteness and pounded, on the surface of the paper.

Waxed Paper is an excellent substitute for tin-foil, for excluding the air and damp from parcels.  It is made by spreading a sheet of writing paper on a hot plate or stone and smearing it with wax.  A hot flat-iron is convenient for making it.

Carbonised Paper, for tracing or for manifold writing, is made by rubbing a mixture of soap, lampblack, and a little water on the paper, and, when dry, wiping off as much as possible with a cloth.

Tracing Designs.—­Transparent tracing-paper can hardly be made by a traveller, unless he contents himself with the use of waxed paper; but he may prick out the leading points of his map or other design, and laying the map on a sheet of clean paper, charcoal or other powder that will leave a stain, it can be rubbed through.

Book-binding.—­Travellers’ unbound books become so terribly dilapidated, that I think it well to give a detailed description of a method of book-binding which a relative of mine has adopted for many years with remarkable success, and to a great extent.  The books are not tidy-looking, but they open flat and never fall to pieces.  Take a cup of paste; a piece of calico or other cloth, large enough to cover the back and sides of the book; a strip of strong linen—­if you can get it, if not, of calico—­to cover the back; and abundance of stout cotton or thread. 1st.  Paste the strip of linen down the back, and leave the book in the sun or near a fire—­but not too near it—­to dry, which it will do in half a day. 2ndly.  Open the book and look for the place where the stiching is to be seen down the middle of the pages, or, in other words, for the middle of the sheets; if it be an 8vo. book it will be at every 16th page, if a 12mo. at every 24th page, and so on:  it is a mere matter of semi-mechanical reckoning to know where each succeeding stitching is to be found; in this volume the stitching is at pages 216, etc., the interval being 16 pages.  Next take the cotton and wind it in between the pages where the stitching is, and over the back round and round, beginning with the first sheet, and going on sheet after sheet until you have reached the last one. 3rdly.  Lay the book on the table back upwards, daub it thoroughly with paste, put on the calico cover as neatly as you can, and set it to dry as before; when dry it is complete.