Did I call veal insipid?  I must add that it is only so in comparison with English beef and mutton.  When I think of the “brown” on the edge of a really fine cut of veal—!

VIII.

As so often when my thought has gone forth in praise of things English, I find myself tormented by an after-thought—­the reflection that I have praised a time gone by.  Now, in this matter of English meat.  A newspaper tells me that English beef is non-existent; that the best meat bearing that name has merely been fed up in England for a short time before killing.  Well, well; we can only be thankful that the quality is still so good.  Real English mutton still exists, I suppose.  It would surprise me if any other country could produce the shoulder I had yesterday.

Who knows?  Perhaps even our own cookery has seen its best days.  It is a lamentable fact that the multitude of English people nowadays never taste roasted meat; what they call by that name is baked in the oven—­a totally different thing, though it may, I admit, be inferior only to the right roast.  Oh, the sirloin of old times, the sirloin which I can remember, thirty or forty years ago!  That was English, and no mistake, and all the history of civilization could show nothing on the table of mankind to equal it.  To clap that joint into a steamy oven would have been a crime unpardonable by gods and man.  Have I not with my own eyes seen it turning, turning on the spit?  The scent it diffused was in itself a cure for dyspepsia.

It is very long since I tasted a slice of boiled beef; I have a suspicion that the thing is becoming rare.  In a household such as mine, the “round” is impracticable; of necessity it must be large, altogether too large for our requirements.  But what exquisite memories does my mind preserve!  The very colouring of a round, how rich it is, yet how delicate, and how subtly varied!  The odour is totally distinct from that of roast beef, and yet it is beef incontestable.  Hot, of course with carrots, it is a dish for a king; but cold it is nobler.  Oh, the thin broad slice, with just its fringe of consistent fat!

We are sparing of condiments, but such as we use are the best that man has invented.  And we know how to use them.  I have heard an impatient innovator scoff at the English law on the subject of mustard, and demand why, in the nature of things, mustard should not be eaten with mutton.  The answer is very simple; this law has been made by the English palate—­which is impeccable.  I maintain it is impeccable!  Your educated Englishman is an infallible guide in all that relates to the table.  “The man of superior intellect,” said Tennyson—­justifying his love of boiled beef and new potatoes—­“knows what is good to eat”; and I would extend it to all civilized natives of our country.  We are content with nothing but the finest savours, the truest combinations;