The aged chief priest, who was assisted by two younger priests, kindly invited me to take part in a Shinto service.  First, I ceremonially washed my hands and rinsed my mouth.  Then, having ascended the steps, my shoes were removed for me so that my hands should not be defiled.  On entering the shrine I knelt opposite the young priests, one of whom brought me the usual evergreen bough with paper streamers.  On receiving it I rose to my feet, passed through the beautiful building and advanced to what I may call, for the lack of a more accurate term, the altar table.  On this table, which, as is usual in Shinto ceremonies, was of new white wood following the ancient design, I laid the offering.  Then I bowed and gave the customary three smart hand-claps which summon the attention of the deity of the shrine, and bowed again.  On returning to my former kneeling-place one of the priests offered me sake and a small piece of dried fish in paper.[37] The chief priest was good enough to read and to hand to me an address headed, “Words of Congratulation to the Investigator,” which may be Englished as follows: 

“I, Yukimichi Otsu, the chief priest, speak most respectfully and reverently before the shrine of the august deity, Okunitama-no-miko-no-kami, and other deities here enshrined:  Dr. Robertson Scott, of England, is here this good day.  He comes to see the things of Japan under the governance of our gracious Emperor.  I, having made myself quite pure and clean, open the door of gracious eyes that they may look upon those who are here.  May Dr. Robertson Scott be protected during night and day, no accident happening wherever he may go.  Dr. Robertson Scott goes everywhere in this country; he may cross a hundred rivers and pass over many hills.  May there be no foundering of his boat, no stumbling of his horse.  Offering produce of land and sea, I say this most respectfully before the shrine.”

After the shrine I visited a co-operative store, curiously reminiscent of many a similar rural enterprise I had seen in Denmark.  Sugar, coarser than anything sold at home, was dear.  Half the price paid for sugar in Japan is tax.  I was informed that there were no fewer than 400 cooperative organisations in the prefecture.

[Illustration:  AUTHOR QUESTIONING OFFICIALS—­]

[Illustration:  AND PLANTING COMMEMORATIVE TREES p. 145]

At several places, although the villagers were busy rice planting, the young men’s association turned out.  The young men were reinforced by reservists and came sharply to attention as our kuruma (jinrikisha, usually pneumatic-tyred) passed.  Some of the villages we bowled through were off the ordinary track, and the older villagers observed the ancient custom of coming out from their houses or farm plots, dropping on their knees and bowing low as we passed.[38] All over Japan, a villager encountered on the road removed the towel from his head before bowing.  If a cloak or outer coat was worn, it was taken off or the motion of taking it off was made.  Frequently, in showery weather, cyclists who were wearing mackintoshes or capes, alighted and removed these outer garments before saluting.