One thing is certain, that slow progress in the development of Hokkaido gives an opening to the critics of Japan who doubt whether her need for expansion beyond her own territory is as pressing as is represented by some writers.  However this may be, Hokkaido is stated to take only a tenth of the overplus of the population of Old Japan.  The number of emigrants in 1913 was no larger than the number in 1906.  A usual view in Hokkaido is that the island can hold twice as many people as it now contains.  “When 3,625,000 acres are brought into cultivation,” says an official publication, “Hokkaido will be able easily to maintain 5,000,000 inhabitants on her own products.”

Very much of what has been achieved in Hokkaido has been done under the stimulating influence of the Agricultural College, now the University.  The northern climate seems to be conducive to mental vigour in both professors and students.  If in moving about Hokkaido one is conscious of a somewhat materialistic view of progress it may be remembered that an absorption in “getting on” is characteristic of colonists and their advisers everywhere.  It is not high ideals of life but bitter experience of inability to make a living on the mainland which has brought immigrants to Hokkaido.  As time goes on, the rural and industrial development may have a less sordid look.[274] At present the visitor who lacks time to penetrate into the fastnesses of Hokkaido and enjoy its natural beauties brings away the unhappy impression which is presented by a view of man’s first assault on the wild.

But he must still be glad to have seen this distant part of Japan.  He finds there something stimulating and free which seems to be absent from the older mainland.  It is possible that when Hokkaido shall have worked out her destiny she may not be without her influence on the development of Old Japan.  Those of the settlers who are reasonably well equipped in character, wits and health are not only making the living which they failed to obtain at home; they are testing some national canons of agriculture.  Face to face with strangers and with new conditions, these immigrants are also examining some ideals of social life and conduct which, old though they are, may not be perfectly adapted to the new age into which Japan has forced herself.  One evening in Hokkaido I saw a lone cottage in the hills.  At its door was the tall pole on which at the Bon season the lantern is hung to guide the hovering soul of that member of the family who has died during the year.  The settler’s lantern, steadily burning high above his hut, was an emblem of faith that man does not live by gain alone which the hardest toil cannot quench.  In whatever guise it may express itself, it is the best hope for Hokkaido and Japan.

During my stay in the island I had an opportunity of meeting some of the most influential men from the Governor downwards; also several interesting visitors from the mainland.  We often found ourselves getting away from Hokkaido’s problems to the general problems of rural life.