The distinct diagonal lines which characterize the class of weaves explained in the previous chapter are absent in the satin weaves; and while the interlacing in the former is done in a strictly consecutive order, we endeavor to scatter the points of stitching in the latter as much as possible, in order to create an entirely smooth and brilliant surface on
[Page 33]
the cloth.

In all satins the number of ends in a repeat is the same in warp and filling.

The lowest repeat of a regular satin comprises five threads of each system, and the interlacing is done in the following order: 

The 1st pick with the 1st warp-thread
"  2d   "       "    3d      "
"  3d   "       "    5th     "
"  4th  "       "    2d      "
"  5th  "       "    4th     "

Fig. 43 illustrates this weave.  An examination of the rotation, as given above, will show that every warp-thread intersects two picks apart from its neighbor.  The number “2” is in this case what is technically known as the counter, that is the number which indicates the points of interlacing by adding it to number 1 and continuing so until all the warp-threads are taken up.

The following is the rule to find the counter for any regular satin: 

Divide the number of harness into two parts, which must neither be equal nor have a common divisor.  Any of these two numbers can be used for counting off, but usually the smaller one is taken.  According to this rule we obtain a regular satin

On  5 harness with counter 2
"  7    "          "      2 or 3
"  8    "          "      3
"  9    "          "      2 or 4
" 10    "          "      3
" 11    "          "      2, 3, 4 or 5
" 12    "          "      5
" 13    "          "      2, 3, 4, 5 or 6
" 14    "          "      3 or 5
" 15    "          "      2, 4 or 7
" 16    "          "      3, 5 or 7.

[Page 34] The 4 harness broken twill, Fig. 53, is sometimes classed among the satins.

The 6 harness satin, Fig. 54, is irregular; as a counter cannot be derived from number 6 by the given rule.  The rotation generally used is 1, 3, 6, 4, 2, 5.

* * * * *

Regular Satins

5 harness Satin, “Satin de Chine."

Straight draw, counter 2.

[Illustration:  Fig. 43]

* * * *

7 harness Satin, “Satin Merveilleux."

Skip draw, counter 2.

[Illustration:  Fig. 44]

* * * *

[Page 35] 7 harness satin

Straight draw, counter 3.

[Illustration:  Fig. 45]

* * * *

8 harness satin “Duchese"

Skip draw, counter 3.

[Illustration:  Fig. 46]

* * * *

[Page 36] 9 harness satin

Straight draw, counter 4.

[Illustration:  Fig. 47]