[Page 91]
DISPOSITION 5

Surface Printed Armure.

[Illustration:  Fig. 93]

[Page 92]
#Length and Width#—­One piece 50 yards long, 181/2 in. wide.

#Stock and Dyeing#—­Warp.—­Ital.  Organ., 1,50 drams, 24/28 deniers,
white bright, pure dye.

Filling.—­5 thread Ital.  Tram., 4 drams, 13/14
deniers, white, bright, pure dye.

#Reed Calculation#—­Per 1 inch, 52 dents, 2x2.
" 181/2 " 962 "
20 " (2% shrinkage).
——­
Total . . . 982 dents.

#Drawing-in#—­1st edge, 7 dents, 4x2 gros de Tours. 
Ground, 968 " 2x2 armure
2d edge, 7 " 4x2 gros de Tours. 
Armure ground on 12 shafts, straight draw. 
Gros de Tours, edges on 4 shafts.

#Warping Ticket#—­Ground warp, 54 yards.
1936/2 white. 
Gros de Tours edges, 55 yards.
2x28/2 white, on separate rolls. 
Total . . . 3984 single ends.

#Harness#—­12 shafts, 1936 heddles, per 181/2 inches.
1 " 8-2/3 " " 1 "
4 Shafts gros de Tours edges, with 28 heddles on each side.

#Reduction of Filling#—­Per 1 inch, 96 picks, 1 end.

#Warp Calculation#—? lbs. = 3984 ends.
1 end = 54 yards.
1000 yards = 1,50 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).

3984x54x1,50x104
------------------ = 1,31 lbs., or 1 lb. 4,96 ozs.
1000x256x100

[Page 93]
#Filling Calculation#—? lbs. = 50 yards.
1 yard = 36 inches.
1 inch = 96 picks.
1 pick = 19 inches.
36 inches = 1 yard.
1000 yards = 4 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 108 (8% waste).

50x36x96x19x4x108
------------------- = 1,54 lbs., or 1 lb. 8,64 ozs.
36x1000x256x100

After weaving, the small flower effects have to be printed on the cloth.

* * * *

[Page 95]
DISPOSITION 6

Pekin:  8 shaft satin and repp.

[Illustration:  Fig. 34]

[Page 96]
#Length and Width#—­1 piece 100 yards long, 201/4 in. wide.

{ Ital.  Organ., 1-35/100 drams, black,
{ bright, 20/22 oz.
#Stock and Dyeing#—­Warp. { Ital.  Organ., 1-15/100 drams, sky,
{ bright, pure dye
{ Cotton No. 100/2, scarlet.

Filling.—­3 threads, Jap.  Tram., 2-8/10 drams,
scarlet, bright, 14/16 oz.

{6x1, black satin
#Reed Calculation#—­Per 1 inch, 68 dents, {6x2, colored "
{2x1, " repp.
" 201/4 " 1377 "
23 " (11/2% for shrinkage).
——­
Total 1400 dents.

#Drawing-in#—­1st edge,  7 dents, 6x2 satin.         }
Ground, 34   "    6x1   "            }
2   "    6x2   "            }
10   "    6x1   "    } twice }
2   "    2x1 repp.  } over. }
10   "    6x1 satin.         }
2   "    6x2   "            }
39   "    6x1   "            }
5   "    2x1 repp.  } twice }
4   "    6x1 satin. } over. } 7 times