100x36x102x2x19x165x108
------------------------- = 2,73 lbs., or 2 lbs. 11,7 ozs.
36x1000x256x100

* * * *

[Page 79]
DISPOSITION 2

Surah 3-1

[Illustration:  Fig. 90]

[Page 80]
#Length and Width#—­1 piece 50 yards long, 231/2 in. wide.

#Stock and Dyeing#—­Warp.—­Ital.  Organ., 1,30 drams = 20/24 deniers,
black, bright, 40/50% = 22/24 ozs.
Filling.—­Cotton No. 120/2 black.

#Reed Calculation#—­Per 1 inch, 80 dents at 2 single ends.
" 231/2 inch, 1880 "
add 36 " = 2% for shrinkage.
——­
Total 1916 dents.

#Drawing-in#—­1st edge, 8 dents, 2 double ends. 
Ground, 1900 " 2 single "
2d edge, 8 " 2 double "
on 4 shafts, straight draw.

#Warping Ticket#—­1st edge, 16 double ends, black. 
Ground, 3800 single " "
2d edge, 16 double " "
——­
Total 3864 single ends. 
Warp 54 yards long = 8% for take up.

#Harness#—­4 shafts, 3832 heddles per 24 inches.
1 " 40 " " 1 "

#Reduction of Filling#—­Per 1 inch, 120 picks, 1 end.

#Warp Calculation#—? lbs. = 4264 ends.
1 end = 54 yards.
1000 yards = 1,30 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).

3864x54x1,30x104
------------------ = 1,10 lbs., or 1 lb. 1,06 oz.
1000x256x100

[Page 81]
#Filling Calculation#-?lbs. = 50 yards.
1 yard = 36 inches.
1 inch = 120 picks.
1 pick = 24 inches.
36 inches = 1 yard
840 yards = 1 skein. 
(No. 120/2) 60 skeins = 1 lb.
100 = 110 (10% waste).

50x36x120x24x110
------------------ = 3.14 lbs., or 3 lbs. 2.24 ozs.
36x840x60x100

* * * *

[Page 83]
#DISPOSITION 3#

Satin Duchesse.

[Illustration:  Fig. 91]

[Page 84]
#Length and Width#—­One warp 300 yards long, 10 pieces of 60 yards
23 inches wide, 2 pieces in width, with one cut edge.

#Stock and Dyeing#—­Warp.—­ Ital.  Organ., 1-55/100 drams, black,
bright, 20/22 oz.
Filling.—­ Jap.  Tram., 1-8/10 and 2-7/10
drams, black, souple, 40/44 oz.

We should use for this fabric 1 end filling, 5-thread, 4-5/10 drams,
but as we have none of this size on hand, we take:  1 end, 2 thread,
1-8/10 drams, and 1 end, 3 thread, 2-7/10 drams.

#Reed Calculation#—­1 inch, 66 dents, 4 single ends.
46 " 3036 "
54 " (13/4% shrinkage).
——­
Total ... 3090 dents.

#Drawing-in#—­ {
1st edge, { 2 dents, 6x2, black.
{ 13 " 4x2, white. 
Ground, 1514 " 4x1, black.

{   2   "    6x2    "
Cut Edge  {   1   "    2x4,   "
{   3   "    empty.
{   1   "    2x4,   "

Ground, 1514 " 4x1, black.

2d edge, {    2   "    6x2, black.
{   13   "    4x2, white.

Satin on 8 shafts, straight draw. 
Cross-thread for split edge on 3 shafts, see design.