ends in warpxlengthxdenierx0,05 gram
--------------------------------------
divided by:          500 meters

for the filling:     Picks per meterxxplyxwidthxdenierx0,05 gram
---------------------------------------------
divided by:             500 meters

Result in metric weight, kilograms and grams.

10.  FINISHING

Give directions as to the process of finishing to which the goods are to be subjected, whether to be pressed, calendered, sized, moired, etc.

11.  CALCULATION OF COST

If all the foregoing conditions are ascertained, and a sample or a piece of the fabric executed, it remains to the manufacturer to determine the exact figure at which he can produce the article.  That this must be done with great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the calculator
          
                                                     [Page 73]
must know in the first place the raw stock prices, and also be acquainted with the details of the manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid therein.  As a rule, the manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering all the items of labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis for his calculations.

A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.

[Page 75]
DISPOSITION 1

Taffeta glace

[Illustration:  Fig. 89]

[Page 76]
#Length and Width#—­One piece 100 yards long, 183/4 inches wide.

#Stock and Dye#—­Warp.—­Ital.  Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams,
brown, bright, 14/16 oz.
Filling.—­Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams,
gold, bright 14/16 oz.

#Reed Calculation#—­Per 1 inch, 70 dents at 3 single ends.
" 183/4 " 1313 "
add 13 " = 1% for shrinkage
——­
Total 1326 dents.

#Drawing in#—­1st edge, 9 dents at 3 double ends. 
Ground, 1308 " at 3 single "
2d edge, 9 " at 3 double "
on 6 shafts, straight through.

#Warping Ticket#—­1st edge, 27 double ends, brown. 
Ground, 3924 single " "
2d edge, 27 double " "
——­
Total 4032 single ends. 
Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.

#Harness#—­6 shafts, 3978 heddles per 19 inches.
1 " 35 " " 1 "

#Reduction of Filling#—­Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.

#Warp Calculation#—? lbs = 4032 ends.
1 end = 110 yards.
1000 yards = 1,47 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).

4032x110x1,47x104
-------------------  =  2,65 lbs., or 2 lbs. 10,4 oz.
1000x256x100

[Page 77]
#Filling Calculation#—? lbs. = 100 yards
1 yard = 36 inches.
1 inch = 102 \ picks.
2 / ends.
1 pick = 19 inches.
36 inches = 1 yard
1000 yards = 1,65 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 108 (8% waste).