Another instance:  In an 8-shaft satin we count 10 warp-threads, which bind on the same pick in 1/4 inch; this, multiplied by 8, equals 80 ends per 1/4, or 320 per one inch; the reed will be an 80 with 4 in a dent or a 64 by 5.

In short, the number of the reed is found by dividing the number of warp-threads that are to go in one dent, in the number of ends per inch.  Sometimes, the reed marks are clearly visible in a sample by holding the latter against the light.  Silk fabrics move with very few exceptions within the limits of 50 and 90 dents per inch.

To learn the full number of dents required for the width of the cloth, simply multiply the dents per one inch with the width, adding a certain allowance for shrinkage.  The edges, of course, must also be taken in consideration, and very often the dents that are taken up by the latter are used to counter-balance that shrinkage.

5.  DRAWING-IN THE WARP IN HARNESS AND REED

Here we must specify the number of dents that contain the same number of ends, and whether the latter are single or double, also the number of shafts and the method of drawing-in.

[Page 71] 6.  WARPING TICKET

To make out the warping ticket, we need to ascertain the total number of ends, whether leased single or double, and the arrangement of the colors.

7.  HARNESS ARRANGEMENT

This is governed by the number of ends to be drawn in and the necessary shafts.  If we have, for instance, 100 threads per inch to be drawn on 4 shafts, we must give each shaft 25 heddles per inch.  There are generally between 25 and 45 heddles per inch on one shaft.

8.  REDUCTION OF THE FILLING

Here we state the number of picks per inch, give directions as to doubling, if such is necessary, and if more than one color or shuttle is used, the rotation thereof.

9.  CALCULATION OF WARP AND FILLING

The system adopted in this country for specifying the size of silk is based on the weight in drams (avoirdupois) of a skein containing 1000 yards.  A skein, thus weighing 5 drams, is technically called 5-dram silk.  The number of yards of 1-dram silk to a pound must accordingly be 256000.  The formulas for figuring the amount of silk required for a piece of cloth are as follows: 

Warp Calculation

Multiply:     Number of endsxlengthxcount
-----------------------------
Divide by:        1000 yardsx256 drams

[Page 72]
Filling Calculation

Multiply:     Picksxxplyxwidthxlength of piecexcount
--------------------------------------  =  lbs.
Divide by:                1000 yardsx256 drams

The result in both cases will be in pounds.

The system of grading the silk which is in vogue in Europe, and which is employed by a number of mills on this side, is as follows: 

1 skein of 500 meters, weighing 0,05  grams = 1 denier international
or 1    "     476   "        "     0,053   "   = 1    "   Turin system
or 1    "     476   "        "     0,051   "   = 1    "   Milan    "

The warp calculation, taking the international denier, would run: