Warp Effects

Levantine on 8 shafts straight draw.

[Illustration:  Fig. 74]

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[Page 56] Serge 6-2 on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.

[Illustration:  Fig. 75]

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8 shaft satin on 2 sections of 8 harness each.

[Illustration:  Fig. 76]

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[Page 57] 12 shaft satin on 2 sections of 12 shafts each.

[Illustration:  Fig. 77]

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Cannele of 8 picks on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.

[Illustration:  Fig. 78]

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[Page 58] FILLING EFFECTS

Serge 5-1 on 6 harness straight draw.

[Illustration:  Fig. 79]

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10 harness satin on 10 shafts skip draw.

[Illustration:  Fig. 80]

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[Page 59]
Repp on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 threads per section.

[Illustration:  Fig. 81]

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[Page 60]
PEKINS

With this name we designate fabrics in which stripes of a different interlacing run in the direction of the warp.  In combining these weaves it is advantageous to have them contrast distinctly, for instance, a short weave such as taffeta or Gros de Tours, with a longer and looser one such as satin, serge or cannele, also changes from warp to filling effects.  Care must be taken to arrange the joining of the two weaves so that the last thread of one weave will cross the first thread of the other.  This will prevent the threads from either stripe to slide over into the other, and so make a clean cut line.

#Pekin.# A stripe of

2 dents of 8 ends each, 8 shaft Satin, on 8 shafts straight draw.
12 " 2 " Taffeta " 4 " " "

[Illustration:  Fig. 82]

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[Page 61]
#Pekin#.  A stripe of

12 ends Cannele of 6 picks on 1st section of 4 shafts.
12 " Repp " 6 threads on 2d and 3d section of 2 shafts each.

[Illustration:  Fig. 83]

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[Page 62]
#Pekin.# A stripe of

10 ends 5 leaf Satin on the 1st section of 5 shafts straight draw.
4   "  Taffeta        "    3d    "        2    "      "       "
18   "  Serge 3-1, 1-1 "    2d    "        6    "      "       "

[Illustration:  Fig. 84]

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[Page 63] BAYADERES

While pekins are formed by warp stripes, bayadere shows us stripes of different weaves running in the direction of the filling.  The rules given in the previous chapter as to the joining of the weaves will also apply here.  The warp which was raised on the last pick of the weave must stay down wherever possible on the first pick of the following weave.  The number of shafts employed must go up evenly in the repeat of each one of the weaves that go into the make up of the bayadere.