Theory of Silk Weaving eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 35 pages of information about Theory of Silk Weaving.

Theory of Silk Weaving eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 35 pages of information about Theory of Silk Weaving.

Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways.  One is to let every individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the other method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is used for the cannele exclusively.  These latter threads must come from a separate warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta part of the fabric.

The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in the middle of the floats of the other group.  The following designs show both the face and backside of the respective weaves: 

[Page 50] Alternating Cannele of 6 picks.

On 4 shafts, straight through.

[Illustration:  Fig. 66]

* * * *

Canelle (2 beams).  Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth pick, drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.

[Illustration:  Fig. 67]

* * * *

[Page 51]
Cannele over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second thread advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread), drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.

[Illustration:  Fig. 68]

* * * *

[Page 52]
Cannele arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks and binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts in first and 2 in second section.

[Illustration:  Fig. 69]

* * * *

Repp on 8 shafts straight through.  Rotation of filling. 1 pick taffeta, 1 pick float (rib).

[Illustration:  Fig. 70]

* * * *

[Page 53] Repp of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per section.

[Illustration:  Fig. 71]

* * * *

Repp of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick binds on the middle of the first pick.  On 6 harness straight draw.

[Illustration:  Fig. 72]

* * * *

[Page 54]
Repp in groups, floating over 6 ends and binding on the seventh and eighth on 8 shafts straight draw.

[Illustration:  Fig. 73]

* * * * *

[Page 55]
DOUBLE FACED FABRICS

In this class we find either two systems of warp or of filling so combined that only one will be visible on either side.  The color on one side is generally different from the other, and so may the interlacing be of a different nature on face and back.  In the latter case great care must be exercised not to allow the weave on one side to disturb the one on the other, and as a rule the points of interlacing of the first warp or filling system are placed as much as possible in the middle of the floats of the second.  This will prevent either color or weave to be seen on the opposite side, as the floats of one side will naturally lay themselves over the binders of the other.  The number of ends in a repeat of the two weaves must either be alike or one a multiple of the other.

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Theory of Silk Weaving from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.