If you make the omelet with four ounces of butter, you must put the jam by the side of the omelet and let the thin part of the omelet cover it.  Of course, the question what jam is best for sweet omelet is purely a matter of taste.  Most good judges consider that apricot jam is the best, and if the sweet omelet itself be flavoured with a little essence of vanilla, the result is generally considered one of the nicest sweets that can be sent to table.  Strawberry jam, especially if some of the strawberries are whole, is also very nice.  The objection to raspberry jam is the pips.

A most delicious omelet can be made by chopping up some preserved slices of pine-apple, and placing this in the omelet, and making the pine-apple syrup hot and pouring it round the base.  Red-currant jelly, black-currant jam, and plum jam can all be used.  One of the cheapest and, in the opinion of many, the best sweet omelets can be made with six eggs, two ounces of butter, and three or four tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade.  In this case it will cost no more to rub a few lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, and pound these with the powdered sugar you use to sweeten the omelet.  If the marmalade is liquid, as it often is, one or two tablespoonfuls of the juice can be poured round the edge of the omelet.

OMELET AU RHUM.—­As a rule, spirits are not allowed in vegetarian cookery.  An omelet au rhum is simply a sweet omelet, plain, with plenty of powdered sugar sprinkled over the top, with some rum ignited poured over it just before it is sent to table.  The way to ignite the rum is to fill a large spoon, like a gravy-spoon, and hold a lighted wooden taper (not wax; it tastes) underneath the spoon till the rum lights.  The dish should be hot.  It may be a consolation to teetotallers to reflect that the fact of burning the rum causes all the alcohol to evaporate, and there is nothing left but the flavour.

OMELET AU KIRSCH.—­Proceed as above, substituting Kirschenwasser for Rum.

OMELET, VEGETABLE.—­A plain omelet can also be served with any puree of vegetables, so that we can have—­Asparagus Omelet, Artichoke Omelet, French Bean Omelet, Celery Omelet, Spinach Omelet, Mushroom Omelet, Tomato Omelet, &c.

CHAPTER V.

SALADS AND SANDWICHES.

SALADS AND SANDWICHES.—­Probably the most patriotic Englishman will admit that, on the subject of salads, we can learn something from the French.  During the last half-century a great improvement has taken place on this point in this country.  Many years ago it was the fashion to dress an English lettuce, resembling in shape an old umbrella, with a mixture of brown sugar, milk, mustard, and even anchovy and Worcester sauce, and then add a few drops of oil, as if it were some dangerous poison, like prussic acid, not to be tampered with lightly.  The old-fashioned lettuces were so hard and crisp that it was difficult