SPARGHETTI.—­Sparghetti is a peculiar form of macaroni.  Ordinary macaroni is made in the form of long tubes, and when macaroni pudding is served in schools, it is often irreverently nicknamed by the boys gas-pipes.  Sparghetti is not a tube, but simply macaroni made in the shape of ordinary wax-tapers, which it resembles very much in appearance.  In Italy it is often customary to commence dinner with a dish of sparghetti, and should the dinner consist as well of soup, fish, entree, salad, and sweet, the sparghetti would be served before the soup.  Take, say, half a pound of sparghetti, wash it in cold water, and throw it instantly into boiling salted water; boil it till it is tender, about twenty minutes, drain it, put it into a hot vegetable-dish, and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese; toss it about lightly with a couple of forks, till the cheese melts and forms what may be called cobwebs on tossing it about.  Add also two tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve (sold by all grocers, in bottles), and serve immediately.  This is very cheap, very satisfying, and very nourishing; and it is to be regretted that this popular dish is not more often used by those who are not vegetarians, who would benefit both in pocket and in health were they to lessen their butcher’s bill by at any rate commencing dinner, like the Italians, with a dish of sparghetti.

MACARONI—­ITALIAN FASHION.—­This is very similar to sparghetti, only ordinary pipe macaroni is used.  Take, say, a teacupful of macaroni, wash it, break it up into two-inch pieces, and throw it into boiling water that has been salted.  Strain it of off, put it in the stew-pan for a few minutes, with a little piece of butter and some pepper and salt.  Add a tablespoonful of tomato conserve, and serve it with some grated Parmesan cheese, served separate in a dish.

Some rub the stew-pan with a head of garlic.  This gives it what may be called a more foreign flavour, but this should not be done unless you know your guests like garlic.  Unfortunately, the proper use of garlic is very little understood in this country.

MACARONI CHEESE.—­Some years back this was almost the only form in which macaroni was served in this country.  Macaroni cheese used to be served at the finish of dinner in a dried-up state, and was perhaps one of the most indigestible dishes which the skill, or want of skill, of our English cooks was able to produce.  Wash and then boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in a little milk till it is quite tender, then put into a well-buttered oval tin a layer of macaroni, and cover this with a layer of bread-crumbs, mixed with grated cheese, and add a few little lumps of butter; then put another layer of macaroni and another layer of bread-crumbs and cheese.  Continue alternate layers till you pile up the dish, taking care to have a layer of dried bread-crumbs at the top.  Warm some butter, but do not oil it, and pour some of this warm butter over the top