MUSHROOM SAUCE, WHITE.—­Mushroom sauce can be made from fresh mushrooms or tinned mushrooms.  When made from fresh they must be small button mushrooms, and not those that are black underneath.  They must be peeled, cut small, and have a little lemon juice squeezed over them to prevent them turning colour, or they had still better be thrown into lemon juice and water.  They must now be fried in a frying-pan with a small quantity of butter till they are tender, and then added to a little thickened milk, or still better, cream.  When made from tinned mushrooms, simply chop up the mushrooms, reserving the liquor, then add a little cream and thicken with a little white roux.  A little pepper and salt should be added in both cases.  Instead of using either milk or cream, you can use a small quantity of sauce Allemande.

MUSHROOM SAUCE, BROWN.—­Proceed exactly as above with regard to the mushrooms, both fresh and tinned, only instead of adding milk, cream, or Allemande sauce, add a little stock or water, and then thicken the sauce with a little brown roux.

MUSHROOM SAUCE, PUREE.—­Mushroom sauce, both white and brown, is sometimes served as a puree.  It is simply either of the above sauces rubbed through a wire sieve.

MUSTARD SAUCE.—­Make, say, half a pint of good butter sauce, add to this a tablespoonful of French mustard and a tablespoonful of made English mustard.  Stir this into the sauce, make it hot, and serve.

N.B.—­French mustard is sold ready-made in jars, and is flavoured with tarragon, capers, ravigotte, &c.

ONION SAUCE.—­Take half a dozen large onions, peel them and boil them in a little salted water till they are tender.  Then take them out and chop them up fine, and put them in a stew-pan with a little milk.  Thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour, or white roux, and season with pepper and salt.  A very nice mild onion sauce is made by using Spanish onions.

ONION SAUCE, BROWN.—­Slice up half a dozen good-sized onions; put them in a frying-pan and fry them in a little butter till they begin to get brown, but be careful not to burn them, and should there be a few black pieces in the frying-pan, remove them; now chop up the onions, not too finely, and put them in a saucepan with a very little stock or water, let them simmer till they are tender, and then thicken the sauce with a little brown roux, and flavour with pepper and salt.

ORANGE CREAM SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.—­Take a large ripe orange and rub a dozen lumps of sugar on the outside of the rind and dissolve these in a small quantity of butter sauce, and add the juice of the orange, strained.  Now add a little cream, or half a pint of milk that has been boiled separately, in which case the sauce will want thickening with a little white roux.  Rubbing the sugar on the outside of the rind of the orange gives a very strong orange flavour indeed—­far more than the juice of almost any number of oranges would produce, so care must be taken not to overdo it.  This is what French cooks call zest of orange.