Rumour, indeed, told various tales about the duke’s real motives.  It was whispered that a certain lady of Bruges, whom he had distinguished by his attentions, was ridiculed for her red hair by a few merry courtiers, whereupon Philip declared that her tresses should be immortally honoured in the golden emblem of a new society.[2] But that may be set down as gossip.  Philip’s own assertion, when he instituted the Order of the Golden Fleece, was that he intended to create a bulwark

“for the reverence of God and the sustenance of our Christian faith, and to honour and enhance the noble order of chivalry, and also for three reasons hereafter declared; first, to honour the ancient knights ...; second, to the end that these present.... may exercise the deeds of chivalry and constantly improve; third, that all gentlemen marking the honour paid to the knights will exert themselves to attain the dignity.” [2]

The special homage to the new duchess was expressed in the device

  Aultre n’aray
   Dame Isabeau tant que vivray[4]

This pledge of absolute fidelity to Dame Isabella was, indeed, utterly disregarded by the bridegroom, but in outward and formal honour to her he never failed.

The new institution was, from the beginning, pre-eminently significant of the duke’s magnificent state existence, wherein his Portuguese consort proved herself an efficient and able helpmeet.  Again and again during a period of thirty years, rich in diplomatic parleying, did Isabella act as confidential ambassador for her husband, and many were the negotiations conducted by her to his satisfaction.[5]

But it must be noted that whatever lay at the exact root of Philip’s motives when he conceived the plan of his Order, the actual result of his foundation was not affected.  He failed, indeed, to bring back into the world the ancient system of knighthood in its ideal purity and strength.  Rather did he make a notable contribution to its decadence and speed its parting.  What was brought into existence was a house of peers for the head of the Burgundian family, a body of faithful satellites who did not hamper their chief overmuch with the criticism permitted by the rules of their society, while their own glory added shining rays to the brilliant centre of the Burgundian court.

Twenty-five, inclusive of the duke, was the original number appointed to form the chosen circle of knights.  This was speedily increased to thirty-one, and a duty to be performed in the session of 1433, was the election of new members to fill vacancies and to round out the allotted tale.

[Illustration:  PHILIP THE GOOD AS FOUNDER OF THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEN FLEECE]