utterly exhausted and powerless. He was unable
even to articulate the name of the man to whose house
he was directed to take me, or the locality where he
lived. It was only from circumstances and a dim
recollection of the name that I was able to apprise
the owner of the cabin whither I was bound; and after
all, much remained for the exercise of his sagacity,
which was not long at fault. We brought my old
guide to the cabin, thrown across a pony, and I set
out anew, guided by the dweller on the hills.
He forced me to mount the pony, and led the way over
the crags. He bounded from rock to rock with
the agility of a deer, though the stones were sharp
as flint, and he barefooted. He was a man of
powerful proportions and extreme activity. My
pony, on the other hand, crept his way through narrow
pathways, worn by the rain. In this way we crossed
two considerable mountains, and, leaving the pony
at the summit of the last, I pursued my companion’s
flight down the slope with the best speed my stiffened
limbs could be forced to. Arriving over a valley
which is called, I think, Branlieu, situated in a
western direction from Gougane Barra, he pointed to
a lone house at the extremity of the valley, as my
destination. It was about four o’clock,
but the rays of the sun had ceased to irradiate this
gloomy valley, over which hung the shades of night.
At the western side the mountain was steep as a wall,
and down from the summit dashed headlong torrents,
swelled by the morning’s rain. The waters
gleamed like sheeted ice through the haze, and their
roar fell upon the ear with a dull sense of loneliness
and pain. On the eastern slope wound a new road,
one of those heartless experiments which the inventive
genius of the Board of Works in Ireland substituted
for the exploded trial of prolonging beggars’
lives by Soyer soup and chained spoons. On these
roads the people were to perform the greatest possible
amount of work, and live on the least possible quantity
of food. But, although these operations cost
much waste of blood, the roads opened no new and fruitful
sources of industry in these mountain valleys, only
frequented by the footsteps of the sportsman, or scanned
by the eye of the votaries of pleasure. The house
where I called was intended for my guide. However,
I found my claim for hospitality at once recognised
on pronouncing the password of my host by the sea.
The cabin—it was literally such—was
in the most filthy state. The dung of the cattle
had not been removed for days, and half-naked children
squatted in it as joyously as if they rolled on richest
carpets. The housewife merely replied to my question
in the affirmative. But she immediately proceeded,
with the help of two little girls, to remove the filth.
I was so fatigued and hungry that I could willingly
postpone the process of cleaning for the sake of providing
any sort of food. I was doomed to disappointment.
No appearance of supper interrupted the busy operation,
until the dung was removed, and the floor drained.
I retired, and endeavoured to ascend the eastern hill,
to a point where I could catch a glimpse of the setting
sun.